42 Inch Snow Plow Blade Power Angle and Conversion for Super

[delikocc]

Here is my conversion of a 42 inch plow blade for use on a super garden tractor, along with the addition of power angle. Pretty much everything that makes a SGT different had to be addressed; wider, taller, longer, and push to lift. The plow mount had to be lowered to maintain the blade pivot geometry with the ground. The mount needed to be longer to be able to attach to something. A 42 inch blade would only really work correctly plowing straight ahead on a SGT because pivoting it results in the blade being inside the wheels, so it needs to be widened to at least 54 inches. And finally something had to be devised to lift the blade other than the pull to lift on the regular GT.

[delikocc]

Measuring the difference in distance to the ground when mounted to a GT vs. a SGT I found it needed to be about 2 3/8 inches lower, so I cut the front hangers and added steel bar to lower the mount.

[delikocc]

On the 982 I am building this for, there happens to be the rear mounts for the Haban push blade left on the tractor from a previous owner, even though the Haban blade didn't come with the tractor. These mounts made it a little easier figuring out how to mount it in the rear (otherwise I would have had to fabricate something similar). I added steel bar to the end of the original mount to reach the Haban mount plates, maintaining the angle of the mount the same as on a regular GT, and added a crossmember for stability and strength.

I could have used slots in the rear like the original but wasn't really comfortable with this being mounted solely by the quick attach. Drilling holes for use with a 3/4 inch rod provides for a much more secure mount of the plow on the tractor.

[delikocc]

To widen the blade I used .090" sheet steel and some 5/16" bar. The lower support for the sheetmetal is at a 135 degree angle so it was easy to make by cutting the bar stock at a 45 degree angle with a circular saw and then flipping the piece and welding it together. I made it 54" because that's standard for other Cub Cadet blades, but after finishing it I thought, why not go even wider like maybe 60"? Oh well, maybe next time.

[delikocc]

For the power angle I started with drawings found on another Cub Cadet enthusiast's forum, http://www.cubcadetcollectors.com/fo....php?f=4&t=977 .

I got the closest cylinder to the one in the drawing from Surplus Center. This cylinder had 3/4" holes on both ends, so I modified the brackets accordingly. To make the front bracket, I used 2 pieces of angle iron welded together instead of a solid block of steel. My cylinder is slightly longer than the original so the rear mount pin needed to be mounted outside of the bracket instead of the inside to make it work right.

I originally built the rear bracket at the 95 degree angle in the drawing but found when trial fitting that this angle was way off. This angle is very important as if it is not correct the cylinder will pull the plow apart instead of pivoting it. I found that the correct angle was closer to 105 degrees which was accomplished by adding a piece of a structural I-beam type beveled washer (about 10 degrees) to the 95 degree angle I had made the bracket.

[delikocc]

A note on the hydraulic couplings. There seems to be a lot of misinformation on the various forums on which couplings fit. There are 2 basic hydraulic couplings generally available in most hydraulic or farm supply stores and neither type is what is used on these Cub Cadets. The Cub Cadet male coupling is a Parker D-202 and the only place I was able to find them was on eBay from 1 seller, other than from Cub Cadet at twice the price.