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#1
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I am gathering all the parts and supplies to clean and paint a 1650 I just acquired. So far I have the air compressor, media blaster, HVLP gun, and two quarts of Cub Cadet paint (yellow and white).
My question is what brand of Reducer and Hardener is everyone using, and where can I get it. Our NAPA closed down, and the closest one is over an hour away now, and they won't ship it. I am looking for alternatives. Also, is it safe to pressure wash the tractor's innards (basically I have all the front end sheet metal, fenders, and center cover off the tractor). There is an incredible amount of grease and dirt in there and I would like to pressure wash it before trying to clean further. Is there anything other than carb and electrical that I should be careful of? Thanks!
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1978 1250 - in pieces 1976 1650 - running and pulling |
#2
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As far as reducer goes, if you bought paint from Cub Cadet, then it is more than likely enamel paint. Read on the can, it will tell you what to reduce with. Most likely it will be lacquer thinner. You can get that at any hardware store. Wal-Mart even carries it. Hardener, I like "Wet Look" hardener. You can get it most anywhere automotive paint is sold. Hope you like a gloss finish because it will make it glossy.
![]() As far as power washing: Power wash that thing! You won't hurt it. You won't hurt the wiring. Now, things like the coil, or the ammeter, you want to stay away from those as much as you can. Just be smart, don't spray directly on a seal for very long. You won't "hurt" it as much as it's just possible to push water past the seal. Passing glances won't hurt. Don't be scared. Oh, and the S/G..... you won't hurt it either. ![]() |
#3
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My 2 cents get the reducer and hardner from where you bought the paint. Careful about mixing brands and follow the instructions on the can. Use what it suggests if it suggests naphtha use naptha or if it says paint thinner use paint thinner. I screwed up and used thinner in my primer instead of naptha like it suggested and it took two weeks for my primer to dry and it looked like gloss gray for a ferguson! It sat in the sun for two weeks in 90+ heat to get it dry, lesson learned the hard way! Prep work is the key like Jon said wash it up good! Get a good base for the paint to adhere to. The quality of your paint job is no better than your prep work.
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake! ![]() |
#4
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I use whatever enamel paint is at TSC at the time,,,,
![]() My paint guy recommended 8:4:1 mix, 1 being the hardener. I have used that mix 3 times, excellent results!! NAPA gave me the measuring cups free when I bought their reducer. The reducer I use is Martin Senour Cross/FIRE, either 233 or 234 depending on the temperature that day. It dries 10X faster than naptha reducer, and is almost impossible to get a run with Cross/FIRE. I get the hardener at TSC. I would drive an hour to get that reducer from NAPA, but, you might have a paint store near by that carries it. Try here: http://www.martinsenour.com/locations/ |
#5
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Ppg sells a enamel hardner in there shop line brand that works very well, as for reducer you can use just about any urethane reducer and it will be fine, reducer is only used to thin the paint for spraying and will all evaporate out as it dries.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#6
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As the others said; it definitely depends on what paint youre using....reducers in my world are to retard flash and dry times, depending on temperature and humidy....as far as thinning solvents go, paints are particular, yes they evaporate but they play a role in the cross linking (if its hardened, epoxies, 2 parts) or the curing process and can effect the results, hardness, shine, etc...for most simple single stage enamels, naptha thinner and valspar hardener (in the blue can, not the one at the local farm and barn) will have good results...for irongard, you have to use their thinner also, go figure....enamel i shot yesterday i had to use xylene....so just read up and check around, ask questions...as the others said; the prep is super important....hope that helps some and good luck....
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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