![]() |
PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
I am sure the oil issue had been beat to death so if you are thinking
stop here. <--The is based on data from the internet and I did my best to keep it short. I found Valvoline Oil Products Racing 20W50 - Not Street Legal, 1 quart, Part Number: VV851 Price: $7.29 through the local carquest. From the Valvoline FAQ (this is not VR1 Racing Oil) Quote:
Quote:
Phosphorus 1300/944 = 1.38 Zinc 1400/1133 = 1.24 The racing oil has 38% more phosphorus and 24% more Zinc. These are sizeable percentages but maybe either is adequate. The confusion is compounded because not all oils use the same form of ZDDP, some protect at lower temperatures which make them more effective. Also too much detergent can reduce the effectiveness of ZDDP. Which is better? I don't have a clue. |
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
To me , don't take this wrong you're comparing apples to bananas. The valvoline is not street legal the rotella is. Also with epa regulations the valvoline may not stay the same formula for long. I'll stick with rotella 15/40 in my truck and IH low ash in my cub.
__________________
Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
|
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
|
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Why not run an oil that the engine manufacture makes? Odds are it will have the correct amount of additives in it since it was design for their engine. All Kohler and Briggs engines were designed to run 5W-30, 10W-30 or straight 30W oil(depends on when engine was built and the time of year temp wise). Why pay $7.29 for an oil when you can buy Kohler or Briggs oil for $4-$5 a quart. It's your money.....feel free to waste it as you see. I do run Valvoline in all my autos.
__________________
Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
OuchI posted about the two oils because earlier others posted about using one of them, Rotella T 15W40, for the Zinc levels. The racing oil has more. I did not say go out and use this oil. I posted about what I discovered and put forward some doubts based on that information. Doubts translate into question which should result in discussion. Are the oils sold by briggs or kohler designed for todays engines or the decades old engines in our old cubs. Or are they more about keeping the EPA happy. It seems fair to look around and see if we can do better which should always be the case. Iff $4 an oil change would do a better job of protecting the small engines I care for most I would use it in a heartbeat! |
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
|
I really think you are reading too much on the internet about what "ingredients" are the best or whatever. Like I said, it is more important that you change your oil regularly than it is what brand/type you use, how much you pay, or what additives are in it. You could run Wal-Mart house brand oil and as long as you service it regularly, the motor would run a very long time. Now, that said there are certain oils I won't use for various reasons such as: they break down too soon, or are prone to carbon deposits. I'm sure I've opened up over 1000 engines. Some oils are just better than others, but I can tell you that the cleanest engines are the ones that are properly maintained. Companies will boast about their oil and it's properties. People will tell you how good of oil brand X is because they have run it for years with no issues. Those people are generally ones who do regular oil changes. So, if you are looking for a good debate here, that's all your going to get. A debate. Yes, I am kind of trying to kill the thread here, but this debate never ends well. Usually just a bunch of guys arguing over who's oil is best. Just do some research, pick a brand and change it regularly. It's the best thing you can do. I suggest running the weight that Kohler recommends and use your brand of choice. My personal choice is Rotella 30WT. 15W-40 is too heavy an oil for an air cooled, non pressure lube motor.
|
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
__________________
Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
|
From my experience, the best oil is the kind you change on regular intervals.
|
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
|
The Valvoline is great stuff if your running a high lift cam with high valve spring pressures and flat lifters at high RPM's it was recommended by the guy that used to build my race engines along with some other oils. For what we are running Rotella is more that you need. For what it's worth I used to run Rotella in my race engine. Never had a problem because of oil. Reason it's not street legal is the zinc kills the cats and O2 sensors.
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
|
Cool as it is $2 a quart cheaper and in stock locally.
Thanks Quote:
|
![]() |
|
|
Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC
All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.
Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.