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#1
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Good morning fellow IH Cub Cadet'ers!
So far I've posted two other issues within this forum - a slow crank issue and an issue with exhaust. People have been very helpful with their input for those issue - thank you! Those other two issues are still unresolved but they're in progress. Now, I'm reporting my last unresolved problem now. This issue is that I'm having a very slow leak at the transmission case / rear cover plate in the rear. I took the gearbox off, wiped all the oil away, and tried to see if I could tell if the hytran was leaking from around the bolts or the gasket. Does anyone know if it's even possible to leak from the bolts? If not, then the solution is simple - I replace the transmission cover gasket (IH-350837-R2). |
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#2
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Yes, they can/will leak IF someone has screwed in too long a bolt and broken or cracked the casting that the bolt threads into.
If you have it apart, check all the threaded holes for this as they are dead end holes. Chase the threads with a bottoming tap and be sure to straighten flat any deformed hole areas in the plate itself. Screws should be no longer than 5/8" unless you are adding a draw bar or sleeve hitch plate(s) |
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#3
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On the rear cover:
The bottom center bolt IIRR is drilled through. It would not hurt to remove it and put a small dab of sealer on the threads and reinstall . Obviously any threaded hole that is not a blind hole, will leak if it is below oil lever, and not sealed. Try removing the bottom bolts one @ a time, if oil comes out, seal them. I'd do that first, that should correct the small "weep" of fluid you are experiencing. If it does not stop it, then you will have to Re-Remove the rear cover and address the "puckered in" of the bolt holes in the cover. |
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#4
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Ok - thanks for the input - appreciate it. I may end up taking off the rear cover plate and replacing the gasket because when I was tightening a 1" bolt into the casing yesterday I heard a loud noise - almost like a gunshot. I thought I broke the bolt off in the hole - but I didn't. I backed it out and looked in to see if any oil was coming out but it didn't. Not sure what happened - but something did. I'm thinking I may have cracked something - but I wasn't using that much pressure on the socket wrench - so still not totally sure. But, thinking it may be safest to get in there to check.
I'll also put sealer around the threads of the screws. When I replace the gasket and screw the plate back on, I assume I am using hytran to refill the casing (to the refill plug's level), correct? |
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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finsruskw - I may have broke / cracked the casing because I was using a 1" bolt, not 5/8". I read about 1" bolts in a part's diagram - but that was, as you said, when using a drawbar etc. If I broke the casing – is my only issue the leaking – or could I have began a slow process of the whole “pumpkin” breaking down? Or, do I just need to deal with sealing that screw from here on out whenever I remove it?
Also, could you provide a specific brand and part number for a correct bottoming tap to use. I would think I’d look for one that’s 3/8” 16, but not sure about any other specs that could change – thread angle etc. I’m thinking that chasing threads could cause more harm than good – since I’m inexperienced? ol'George – I understand you’re referencing the bottom center hole of the transmission casing, but sorry - what does “IIRR” mean? Is that a reference to a code in the original owner’s manual or something? Also, if that’s the case – that the bottom center screw is drilled through – why doesn’t it leak like crazy when I take it off – maybe the whole is full of dirt? The more I think about this the more I want to just take the plate off and see what’s going on inside. Maybe there’s a lot of gunk at the bottom of the casing – who knows. I also want to see what I did to the casing when I heard a loud noise when tightening the 1” screw when it should have been 5/8”. |
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#7
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Diz Jr. - I do thank you for the confirmation, kind sir.
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#8
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Quote:
I'd pull the cover plate and look for a piece of metal laying down in the goo. The oil can pick that metal up and run it through the gears. That can do lot's of damage. |
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#9
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Quote:
Bottoming tap: Just grind off the starting taper of a tap so mostly, it is straight thread. That is all a bottom tap is. Taps to the bottom of the hole, with full size thread. It would be a good idea to take the cover off to see what you have, and address any damage if it occured. Use a large enough pan ( dish pan works ok) there will be about 7 qts drain out, and leave a couple bolts partially in or the oil will come out all @ once making a mess on the floor.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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