Drive System Fluid question

ironman · #1 09-03-2016, 04:42 PM

I recently acquired a GT 2554 which is a hydro and uses the Drive System Fluid (p/n 737-3120) in the tranny. There are no issues with the hydro but because I am unsure of this tractors past maintenance, I plan to change the fluid and filter.

I have not been able to find any specs on the Cub/MTD Drive System Fluid but I did find one chart that gave its equivalent as 10W40 synthetic blend motor oil. I don't plan on using that, but I wondered if HyTran would be a good alternative to the Drive System Fluid.

Any opinions. (p.s. I ask this because I already have an amount of HyTran left over from maintenance on other tractors) Thanks in advance.

aagitch · #2 09-03-2016, 06:44 PM

I don't believe hytran would be a good substitute.

J-Mech · #3 09-03-2016, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aagitch

I don't believe hytran would be a good substitute.

Why not??? It is a suitable oil for hydrostatic transmissions, both in Cub Cadets and the hydro tractors IH built.

I'd use it.

ironman · #4 09-03-2016, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aagitch

I don't believe hytran would be a good substitute.

Could you elaborate why on what you believe?

I ask because around OCC, HyTran seems to be the gold standard and I was looking for any reasons that I should not use it.

Shotgun Wedding · #5 09-03-2016, 08:11 PM

Hey Ironman, what kind of transmission is in that tractor? A Hydrogear? If so, here is the link from the BDU models in the newer tractors, all they need is an SJ/CD in 20w50. If hytran fits, then I'd use it.

ironman · #6 09-03-2016, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shotgun Wedding

Hey Ironman, what kind of transmission is in that tractor?

That is a good question. The parts manual gives a breakdown for the hydrostatic pump and the transmission but they don't say who makes it.

This has the cast iron rear end and the pump bolts on.

J-Mech · #7 09-03-2016, 08:56 PM

It's a Hydrogear. Same basic unit that was on an 1863, which used Hy-Tran.....

aagitch · #8 09-03-2016, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

Could you elaborate why on what you believe?

I ask because around OCC, HyTran seems to be the gold standard and I was looking for any reasons that I should not use it.

I'd use a cheaper knock off brand for a hydro-gear. Dang hytran is so expensive these days unless you can get it in bulk. I missed the part where you mentioned you already had some extra on hand so my response was useless anyway sorry about that.

Oak · #9 09-04-2016, 12:26 AM

I don't think it will matter but I will say this. Hytran is great if you can drain the fluid and scrape out all the crap that gels up on the bottom. You can't do that on your GT2554 like you can the old stuff. There is no rear cover to remove. Look at the Deere stuff, they don't want all the moisture coagulating on the bottom because their differentials are like the newer Cub stuff, they gotta be split to be cleaned. +1 on the synthetic 15-40. I think I will be switching over to that on all my stuff for now on.

What paint scheme are you going to do on this one " 2016 Stanley Cup Champs"

ironman · #10 09-04-2016, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aagitch

I'd use a cheaper knock off brand for a hydro-gear. Dang hytran is so expensive these days unless you can get it in bulk. I missed the part where you mentioned you already had some extra on hand so my response was useless anyway sorry about that.

Yes, have some but not enough. I can always save it for another project.
The knock off brand, TSC's Traveller brand for instance, crossed my mind. I'm trying to find out if it has any advantage over synthetic motor oil.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oak

I don't think it will matter but I will say this. Hytran is great if you can drain the fluid and scrape out all the crap that gels up on the bottom. You can't do that on your GT2554 like you can the old stuff. There is no rear cover to remove. Look at the Deere stuff, they don't want all the moisture coagulating on the bottom because their differentials are like the newer Cub stuff, they gotta be split to be cleaned. +1 on the synthetic 15-40. I think I will be switching over to that on all my stuff for now on.

What paint scheme are you going to do on this one " 2016 Stanley Cup Champs"

A great point about cleaning out. At least with cheaper fluid you can do changes more often and hopefully diminish build up.

No paint job for this one, once I got it all spic 'n spanned it is in pretty nice shape. Except for the plastic hood, that is. PO had a garage heater pointed the wrong way and a little too close and gave it a Chernoble. Hood is usable but beyond repair to make it look nice so I'm on the lookout for one but they seem to be like hen's teeth.