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Reload this Page 1872 front PTO wires burned/melted
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  #1  
Old 12-22-2016, 04:31 PM
Steve N Mi Steve N Mi is offline
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Default 1872 front PTO wires burned/melted
I bought this Super the end of June and it did start and run when I would insert a jumper as shown by the PO. He claimed the PTO switch was no good and if I replaced it, all would be well once more. The jumper was a short piece of wire inserted into the female plug slots for the 2 red wires for the PTO sw.

After buying a new switch and installing it, the tractor failed to turn over at all. I started looking at the wiring and didn't get far before I noticed that both the feed and ground leads going to the front PTO were taped up. The electrical tape was poorly done (really a bad job) and was covering several inches of bare wire, the insulation had burned or melted off and the copper wire was even a little crispy.

I was afraid I wouldn't be able to keep this short - I want to give any brave soul that offers help, background to better describe the problem. Oh, the Magnum was replaced by a K Command. The original engine had internal problems and not suitable for rebuild - so I was told by the PO. Maybe the meltdown was caused by a HOT engine before it quit, I'm only guessing. I think these pto's normally draw only a few amps, right? Not enough to melt wire insulation or am I wrong about this?

I have a wiring diagram thanks to R Bedell (I will give credit to the OCC member once I track down who it was that sent it to me), so I may be able to follow along if someone will point me to a starting point or trouble shooting path. Thanks for any help, Steve
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  #2  
Old 12-22-2016, 07:59 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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I can help if you like.

Focusing in on the "starting" of the engine. There are two things that have to occur. (A) The PTO switch has to be in the OFF position, and (B) the Brake Pedal switch has to be depressed. Now, this is in consideration, that the wiring and components are in good working order, and that it is wired correctly.
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Old 12-23-2016, 02:07 PM
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FrankF3 FrankF3 is offline
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How is the fuse/fuseholder on the dash pedestal. My father told me last night he has a no-start condition, then told me while getting on the tractor his foot wiped the fuseholder right off. (He is 84 and it does save me time in troubleshooting it) If the fuse is blown, I believe it is a 20A fuse.
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1989 - Cub Cadet 1772
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38" Lawn Sweeper #196483
42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349
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  #4  
Old 12-23-2016, 11:41 PM
Steve N Mi Steve N Mi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankF3 View Post
How is the fuse/fuseholder on the dash pedestal. My father told me last night he has a no-start condition, then told me while getting on the tractor his foot wiped the fuseholder right off. (He is 84 and it does save me time in troubleshooting it) If the fuse is blown, I believe it is a 20A fuse.
My fuse is 20 amp and fine. I can see it happening with a misplaced foot while mounting the tractor. I have bumped the PTO sw. a couple of times causing a no-start condition on my other 1872.
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  #5  
Old 12-24-2016, 08:05 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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That pigtail is all well, fine and good.

BUT..........you could fix this problem for less than $3.00

You could go to your local Auto Parts Store (ie: NAPA) and buy some "fully insulated Female Disconnects" in the 14-16GA (Blue). Cut off the plug, strip back, and crimp on these Disconnects. You just have to make sure that the proper wire goes on the proper terminal. This is in consideration that you have a decent Crimp Tool.

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CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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Old 12-24-2016, 10:03 AM
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ol'George ol'George is online now
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A couple years ago it was posted on here the packard plug number for the plug.
I don't remember it without a lot of research.
hopefully somebody will post.
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Old 12-23-2016, 11:35 PM
Steve N Mi Steve N Mi is offline
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Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
I can help if you like.

Focusing in on the "starting" of the engine. There are two things that have to occur. (A) The PTO switch has to be in the OFF position, and (B) the Brake Pedal switch has to be depressed. Now, this is in consideration, that the wiring and components are in good working order, and that it is wired correctly.
Yes, I'd be happy to have your help. I hear you about A and B. I had a chance to look things over today and noticed the ignition switch had a fair amount of corrosion around the 5 spades. I tried to unplug it to clean it, the two had become one. I took the sw. out and pried the plug off. I now have a new switch and will buy a plug pigtail when I identify a source. I see some on eBay but maybe I can get one locally tomorrow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Wi...3D181725389121

It is a wonder it started and ran the 10 or so times after I got it home in late June.
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