1811 Lift Float

[pmarq2008]

Hey guys,
I am trying to free up my lift so the attachments will float freely. I am able to put a block under them and get it to move but it is very stiff. I read in a prior post that you can take the Coiled pins out and remove the shaft and clean it up some but I am unsure of were these pins are and how to go about Removeing them. Could some one point them out to me in a picture or something?

Thanks
Phil.

The Rockshaft Arm (reference # 2) and Rockshaft Arm Assembly (reference # 1) are held together with the (2) 3/8"x2" coiled pins. Where the shaft needs to be able to freely move is where the Rockshaft Arm (reference # 2) passes through the tractors frame, and through the Lift Bracket Assembly (reference #3).

[aagitch]

I believe #3 needs to spin free of #2 to give it a nice float.

[squatch]

The #s are so small my old eyes can't see them clear. But yes I believe it is #3 that needs to float. You're not getting that shaft apart most likely. Most are rust welded together. I would spray some penetrating oil all over around where the inner shaft passes through that part and work it as best as you can to loosen it up. Between the lift arm and the frame and between the lift arm and the deck lift arm rockshaft assembly. Then once it's moving oil it good with some motor/gear oil regularly to keep it that way. If I'd had any sense I'd have put a zerk in mine while I had it apart.

#3 is independent of the rest, as the cylinder extends it pushes #3 against #1 to give lift.

If your #3 is not free the rest is likely so corroded you will not get it apart without damage.

Suggestion-

Remove drive shaft and cylinder or whatever parts you need to remove to get to the rockshaft and work on it.
Using a one gallon jug mix 1 cup of muriatic acid to water and fill the jug. Degrease the parts. Over the coarse of a day pour the muriatic solution over the joints of #3 and where the shaft exits the frame, use a plastic pan under the frame to catch the run off. Pour about a cup worth over the joints about once an hour for a few hours. Move #3 to a new position before each pour. At the end of the day rinse with water thoroughly, water will nuetralize the acid. Muriatic acid eats rust like no tomarrow. Once it is moving freely soak it down with PB and then soak it again, and again.

Scott

[Matt G.]

pmarq2008-

If you have a torch, I'd use that to heat #3 until it glows, then move it back and forth with a hammer until it cools, rather than pouring acid all over everything. If you use the acid, everything it touches will have to be repainted, as it will eat not only the rust, but also all of the paint.

Muriatic Acid safety tips: don't even think about getting near it without wearing safety goggles and rubber gloves. Don't get it near anything metal that you like, as it will completely destroy aluminum parts in a matter of minutes, and the fumes alone will badly rust steel and iron parts nearby. Murphycc is wrong, water is ph-neutral and will NOT neutralize acid, only dilute it. You need baking soda to neutralize it. Keep some nearby to immediately neutralize spills. You can then flush everything with water after the acid has been neutralized.

I'm going to highly recommend that you don't get acid anywhere near your tractor, as you may wind up getting it places you don't want it, and then your tractor is going to rust away wherever the acid remains. A friend of my dad's had a car frame rust out badly because he stored a jug of Muriatic Acid on a shelf next to the car. Some PB Blaster, a torch, and patience is all you need to free it up. This is a fairly common problem. This part was stuck on my 782 when I got it, and a few days soaking in PB blaster and tapping it back and forth with a hammer freed it up.

I've been using muriatic acid for more than 20 years as a grout release and as a rust remover.
Flushing away with water....nuetralize may have been a poor choice on my part.....remove be flushing with water.....it's already diluted.

So you think a torch heat applied to painted metal will not remove paint?

No diluted acid will not attack the paint, it will attack the rust under the paint.

To each his own.

Gotta figure though...acid or fire....if a man has to ask maybe he should not be in posession of either.

What's your fear Matt?

Scott