Could anyone talk me through how to do an engine overhaul on my 129?

[three4rd]

I know this is aLOT to ask - probably too much (?) since I would need a good amount of guidance. I'm not afraid to tackle jobs - and love when I can do them and everything turns out right - but, as I've shared in other threads, I do not have a whole lot of, shall we say, natural mechanical ability. Mechanically challenged would probably be the politically correct term!

A quick review of what is happening....starts hard (getting worse), then runs ok but just doesn't sound right...seems like it runs very hot for one thing...also not enough power....struggle to mow, etc....then - after about an hour, the engine seems fine.

I have to do something soon. Mowing is becoming increasingly difficult since it bogs down in the higher grass...sounds like it wants to stall unless I stop and let the RPM pick up again. And, needless to say, I'm blowing out alot of oil. The mark on the dipstick is typically down about half way after running the tractor for my approx. 90-minute yard mowing. I can't imagine plowing snow off my driveway this coming winter will go any easier than the mowing is. I don't want to damage or ruin the engine by continuing without some major service to it. I'm assuming it's worth it to do it. When I look at the new garden tractors at places like Lowe's, etc. I'm not all that impressed. The other issue with mine is that it does leak transmission fluid - have been keeping a pan under the trans for years, and I make sure to keep the fluid level up. Replaced the gasket on the back once, although it's not leaking there - it's coming from underneath the trans - hard to pin down exactly where.

The other option is to find someone locally to work on it. The one repair shop that worked on my tractor a few years ago did not impress me. There was one specific thing I told them to look for (ACR issues due to hard starting) and they completely missed it. Unfortunately, my IH dealer whom I've been getting service and parts from for as long as I've had the tractor no longer does overhauls.

So.....thanks for any suggestions...(other than good luck LOL)

[olds45512]

Where in PA are you located?

[three4rd]

Berks County - near Reading, PA....why do you ask?

[J-Mech]

Why don't you just buy a short block, already overhauled?

I'd build you one up, but I won't have time until winter.

I'll also add, that you have a fuel system problem that overhauling the motor won't fix.

[three4rd]

J-Mech,

Would doing that be easier or harder than overhauling mine? Obviously we're talking about removing a good part (all?) of the engine and whatever else, and then replacing with the rebuilt. Sounds like great advice, but, again, I have so little experience that I can't envision how much work would go along with the suggestion.

So you're saying the fuel system issue is causing the power inconsistency? Overhaul carburetor to fix that?

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by three4rd

J-Mech,

Would doing that be easier or harder than overhauling mine? Obviously we're talking about removing a good part (all?) of the engine and whatever else, and then replacing with the rebuilt. Sounds like great advice, but, again, I have so little experience that I can't envision how much work would go along with the suggestion.

Well.... that's why I suggest you buy a motor. If you aren't even in full understanding of what it takes to replace the short block, an overhaul is probably a stretch of your ability. Not making fun, as people seem to think I do, I'm just stating facts.

Basically, you would remove the engine, tin work, PTO, flywheel, head, carb and oil pan, then install all of that onto another motor. Not bad to do really. You will have to clean up and plane your own head. (Unless you want to get a head ready to bolt on, or buy a motor with one.)

You can check out what I do here. But like I said, it would be winter before I had time.


If Tim can help you, by all means, deal with him. He'll do you right. If not, I will also mention that I have a brother in Maryland, and he is a member here. He can't overhaul your engine, but between me and my parents, we usually make a few trips out to his place a year. Might save shipping costs. No guarantees, but just mentioning it.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by three4rd

Berks County - near Reading, PA....why do you ask?

Just wondering how far you were from me so i could possibly lend my assistance.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by olds45512

Just wondering how far you were from me so i could possibly lend my assistance.

That is much appreciated! Unfortunately I see you're close to 4 hours west of me.

[dale c.]

have you checked the point gap / timing , cleaned the points etc.?

[three4rd]

Bought new points today, along with condenser and coil - did not get everything put back on since I'm also cleaning the carb. But...since you brought it up (and I was going to ask anyway)...I'm concerned about having the points gap at exactly the right place in the timing. When I turn the engine by hand, I can see where at some point the bar comes out as far is it's going to - and then I understand about gapping it to .020 and locking it in place. I did that. But, what confuses me is that continued turning of the engine seem to produce no change in the position of the bar until you really turn it a good amount. So...how do I know if I have the points gap open at its widest at the correct place in engine rotation? Should it be just as soon as the bar pushes out its farthest? I don't have a timing light and so need to set this as best I can. Also, I've read about using the sight-hole...have no idea where this is (?)