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#1
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Hi all. Had a question. Acquired a 1986 1211 hydro, from an older gentleman, that had the misfortune of loosing the engine oil drain plug, while running tractor. Broke the connecting rod, so I rebuilt the Kohler M12. Runs pretty good. Thought I read somewhere that the axle tubes can collect water in them, causing them to split in freezing temps. I've kept her in heated garage because I didn't want to tempt fate. Is there a fix for this? I'd like to store her in unheated space next year. Figured the time to attempt anything, is when doing the oil change and filter. Thanks for any input.
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#2
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#3
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Thanks Jonathan. I knew I had seen that info somewhere. Man that's a lot to digest. Really didn't want to disassemble the whole axle. I might just attempt the suction method. I imagine new axle seals are needed, after the suction procedure. Man, just the filter and oil change is pushing $70 not including gasket. I started this hobby with a 1967 Wheel Horse Commando 6 given to me the beginning of last summer. Then the 1211, and since a 1981 Case 210 for blowing snow. I love all the old tractors, accept the Green colored ones. Hope I don't get banned from this sight for having varied allegiances. The Cub is great, and the only hydro I have. Maintaining all this stuff is almost as expensive as my 1970 Roadrunner, but still enjoyable. Thanks again.
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#4
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Hi all. I took an interest in this thread because I have a '93 1340 and have never changed the hydro oil or the filter. When I bought the tractor in '93, the dealer told me there was no filter provisions and that all I needed to do was keep the oil level up on the transmission. Last year when I bought my new GSX, I started tinkering with the 1340 and found that there is a filter. I changed it and the hydro oil and am now wondering about what's in the axle tubes. I read the write up and viewed the pictures on modifying the rear by adding the drain back holes but am wondering if that's necessary. Couldn't a drain hole be drilled into the bottom of each axle tube and then a threaded plug added? Or maybe a hole in the top of the tube and then use the mity vac or a suction gun to suction out what's in the tube? Or maybe I'm just missing something here. I really don't want to tear the whole rear apart just to add the 2 drain back holes. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks.
Duane |
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#5
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Duane, if you don't want to tear it apart and drill the holes, then just leave it alone.
You can't put a hole in the top, the axle inside will keep you from sucking the oil out. I suppose you could drill a hole in the lower part and thread a plug, but you better guess right on where to put the hole on the first attempt. Axle is pretty thick, and odd shaped. Plus the oil that is in the tubes has no way to circulate back to the rear. Drilling holes in the rear housing allows the oil to circulate. |
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#6
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Quote:
Duane |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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