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#1
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Does anyone have pictures of the wiring in their Cub Cadet diesels, or even links to diesel restoration threads showing pictures of the build? I did some searches and found a few but figured I’d ask the experts here. I have a wiring mess right now, and I’m just trying to determine where everything goes.
Pictures of the ignition wiring, ground locations, etc. would be greatly appreciated. The diagram helps, but I am a visual guy and would like the wiring to look neat and correct. Thank you in advance.
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-Derek Cub Models: Original, 100 (x3), 1282, 1572, XT1 LT46 |
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#2
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Well Derek, I'm a visual guy too, but in this instance, I'm not sure how a picture is helpful. If you are correcting the wiring, not just rewiring it stock, then you are going to add a lot of things that weren't originally there. If you are just doing a stock rewire, stop now. The glow plugs need to be direct wired to a relay, then direct to the battery. Take all the load off the ignition switch. The starter needs upgraded, and a relay put in line between the starter solenoid and the ignition switch. Personally I would also put the fuel pump on a relay too. It doesn't pull much, but just as well get the load off the switch.
As far as ground locations, be smart. Battery should ground to the engine directly, with a large ground strap from the frame to engine. Where isn't really important as long as it isn't going to interfere with anything, or rub. Best if it is on the engine block itself. Head is ok too, just don't use a head bolt. The engine moves around a lot, so keep that in mind. As far as the harness itself goes, just use your head. Route it out of the way of moving parts, and don't intertwine wires with components. You should be able to remove the harness mostly without disassembling the machine. (Mostly.... I'm sure some things will need to be removed to get it out.) I've built a lot of harnesses. It is time consuming. Do it right. Use shrink wrap, and personally I would solder most everything, but I'm picky like that. I know how much longer a soldered terminal lasts over ones that aren't. Make sure the harness isn't too tight. Leave an inch or two excess to replace terminals should they fail, and room for the harness to flex if needed. Don't kink wires. Good luck. |
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#3
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Thanks Jonathan, I do appreciate your feedback. I’m glad that there are a select few experts on the forum that really help out the noobies!
Someday I’ll get there!
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-Derek Cub Models: Original, 100 (x3), 1282, 1572, XT1 LT46 |
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#4
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Quote:
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#5
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I've looked at Porch Electric. After trolling the forums, it seems like people have good things to say. I don't see a 1572 diesel as one of their stock options. I will give them a call/email to see if they can do one. Unfortunately, with my wiring being such a mess I wouldn't want to send it in for them to "replicate". Nonetheless, I will call them to see what they suggest.
__________________
-Derek Cub Models: Original, 100 (x3), 1282, 1572, XT1 LT46 |
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#6
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Again.... if you get a new replacement harness, you will end up cutting and splicing on it anyway if you plan to make the needed upgrades. No more than that harness is, about as easy just to make your own. I don't think Porch, or Mike on this site (can't remember his user name right now) make a diesel harness.
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| Tags |
| 1572, d600, diesel, wiring |
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