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  #1  
Old 03-26-2019, 02:52 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: RI
Posts: 384
Default Small pin removal frustrations

well tractor is almost totally apart, but those dam small pins (spiral and roll) just wont move. I have a (cheap) pin punch set and PB Blaster penetrant. Also, have not used my ox-acetylene torch yet but that's coming!

Trying to pull the driveshaft coupler at the transmission, the clutch-brake pedal cross over shaft pin, and the front axle pin.

suggestions welcome but it looks like may be time for some real heat... if I heat the end of that driveshaft the coupler is loose so I dont think it will overheat into the transmission input shaft, and that needs a new seal anyway...

if heating doesnt work and the pins get mangled then what? they are too hard to drill out supposedly.
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File Type: jpg 20190326_143400.jpg (32.9 KB, 262 views)
File Type: jpg 20190326_143405.jpg (43.0 KB, 263 views)
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2019, 02:59 PM
Workingstiff Workingstiff is offline
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The pins look flush to the surface. Support and a 3LB hammer
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2019, 03:09 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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how do I support it? wood? and does torch heat ever help?
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #4  
Old 03-26-2019, 04:10 PM
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cooperino cooperino is offline
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Agreed.. support it and whack it! I use my air hammer with a bit I made specifically for the pins.
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  #5  
Old 03-26-2019, 04:22 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Cut a wood block for support? As to the air hammer, I HAD one but IIRC it was a cheapo HF one and I may have tossed it for being weak. may look on ebay for a used snap-on or IR one and do it right.

As to HF, I was an HF snob but the pic of my engine hanging over the cub includes, a HF chainfall, HF alum jack, HF impact gun (which I am VERY impressed with that one!), and who knows what else... I guess no more chit-talkin HF for me!
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #6  
Old 03-26-2019, 05:08 PM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Do not use heat on the coupling/shaft!!
You will ruin the heat treatment.
Support it with a jack or piece of metal on concrete and whack the pin punch with a B.F.hammer, sometimes a person can hold the pin punch with a pair of vice grips if they are afraid of hitting their hand/fingers.
If the coiled pin is mushroomed, hit it from the other end or grind it flush.
You will not get it out if it has a mushroomed head.
As mentioned an air hammer works well,
but still solidly support the shaft, as it makes
the pin come out easier.
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  #7  
Old 03-26-2019, 06:47 PM
lwrehm lwrehm is offline
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Location: Wisconsin
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A couple years ago I had a hell of a time getting the pin out of the drive shaft of one of the 102s. Ended up using one of those punches with the ball end (no clue what they are called) with a cheap Harbor Freight are chisel. Used a coupling nut that the punch would fit into and a bolt with the head cut off as kind of a holder to keep the punch and chisel in contact. Still took a hell of a time to get it out.

Once it was out I figured out why it was such a bear to remove, this may not be a very good picture but you should be able to see the ridge it was hanging on...
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