Rusted deck, salvageable?

[amanfrromthere]

Previous owner of my new property left 3 cubs, all non-operational- 1864, 1641, and a old one that has '63 written on the key, so I guess '63 (no model # visible on it, ID plate worn off). I managed to get the 1864 running, and it runs pretty well. That has a 54" deck, but it is rusted to hell. The 1641 has a 44" deck, which is pretty rusted in a couple spots, but not nearly as bad. Surprisingly (or not since it appears to be built like a tank), the really old one doesn't have a spot of rust on it.

Anyways, assuming one had the fabrication skills to do so, is the 44" deck salvageable? With enough effort I'm sure they both are, but the 54" seems like you'd basically be building a whole new one.

Tops- https://photos.app.goo.gl/uUZjjyFLYEuq7EtV8
Bottoms- https://photos.app.goo.gl/aJfVHJiHcKH2wWt68

Thanks

[athomas]

Like said anything can be fixed -usually ! but them ? strip them down and try to sell the spindles and wheels or whatever else isn't rotted to death and scrap the rest is what I'd do with them,and I usually don't pitch anything ! just my opinion ! And welcome to OCC !!

[amanfrromthere]

Originally Posted by athomas

Like said anything can be fixed -usually ! but them ? strip them down and try to sell the spindles and wheels or whatever else isn't rotted to death and scrap the rest is what I'd do with them,and I usually don't pitch anything ! just my opinion ! And welcome to OCC !!

Certainly a better option than just junking them. But I should have mentioned that I don't actually have a working deck, or another lawnmower. I moved in late in the fall, so I didn't have any need to mow. But I will need a deck come spring. Finding one has been a challenge, and of the ones I have found, they're so expensive I might as well just buy a new mower. Half-joking, the 1864 is still a much more capable machine than any new entry level mower and I can certainly take advantage of the available attachments.

The 1864 has ~900 hours on it. I should probably get an actual service company out to take a look at it and see if there's anything of concern before shelling out for a deck. The previous owner was not a fan of maintenance, whether for the Cubs or anything else on the property...

I was able to get it working because the main issues were electrical, which I can figure out. But aside from the basics like changing oil / plugs etc, my experience with this type equipment is very low, especially with the hydraulics.

[john hall]

I'm stubborn enough to try to salvage most anything (and cheap enough too) but those things are scrap metal. Find yourself another deck and save the useable parts on those. The last lawnmowers I bought had to have the decks rebuilt. I used the decks and the bearing housings, that was about it--maybe blades. Spindles, bearings, cups, seals, hardware, wheel bolts, pulleys, idlers, springs, belts---decks can get real expensive real quick. having said that, its good to know that everything on the deck is new. So if you do go to look at another deck, check them over really good for wear on the wheel bolts, spindle bearings, wear and corrosion on the pulleys.

[amanfrromthere]

Originally Posted by john hall

I'm stubborn enough to try to salvage most anything (and cheap enough too) but those things are scrap metal. Find yourself another deck and save the useable parts on those. The last lawnmowers I bought had to have the decks rebuilt. I used the decks and the bearing housings, that was about it--maybe blades. Spindles, bearings, cups, seals, hardware, wheel bolts, pulleys, idlers, springs, belts---decks can get real expensive real quick. having said that, its good to know that everything on the deck is new. So if you do go to look at another deck, check them over really good for wear on the wheel bolts, spindle bearings, wear and corrosion on the pulleys.

Thanks. On a good deck, how freely should the blades spin by hand?

[john hall]

Originally Posted by amanfrromthere

Thanks. On a good deck, how freely should the blades spin by hand?

There should be little resistance to rotation, and hardly any slop if you lift up and down out on the tip of the blade. The best way to check is with the belt removed so you can spin each spindle independently, plus the pressure of the belt won't allow you to see how much lost motion you really have. When you spin a blade (carefully I might add) you shouldn't hear a lot of growling--that's an indication the bearings are gone or are on the way. If you remove the belt, also see how well the idler pulley on the deck spins AND look for a lot of up and down motion in the arm it mounts to--sometimes that bolt and bushing need replacing.

One other thing when inspecting a deck is to see if the blade tips are at equal heights. The amount of misalignment you can tolerate somewhat depends on are you mowing a nice lawn in a subdivision or are you trimming the outlying areas around the barn where rocks/stumps/mystery objects await.