1811 and plowing

[mbull]

I have an 1811 equipped with a 42" plow blade. The tractor has wheel weights, but I notice they do not protrude out nearly as far as some I see in pictures, so I imagine they are not as heavy as they could be. I have chains, but again they do not seem as robust as others I see, at least in terms of the number of chain sections crossing the tires. So here's my issue. The tractor is fine for three or four inches of snow and maybe up to eight if the snow is light. But with deeper snow, or heavy wet snow more than four or six inches, I loose traction and have to beat at the snow with momentum. I end up spinning the wheels, wearing the chains and scarring the driveway. I made a weight box last week, which has about 100#of sand in it, but haven't had snow since to test it yet. What I'm trying to figure is can I significantly improve the traction of this tractor with more weight and better chains, or do I really need to get a bigger machine. Driveway is about 250-feet, well paved and very steep. Any thoughts? Thanks.

[Matt G.]

Put tubes in the tires and fill them with washer fluid. Part of your problem is the aluminum rear...it's about 55 lbs lighter than the cast iron rear. I have about 300 lbs on my 782 with aluminum rear and 2-link chains. You have 4-link chains. 2-link chains would help, but I'm not sure they'd make a big difference. I've found it's just about equally easy to spin tires with either type of chain on them, given the same amount of weight.

If I were you I'd start looking for a snowblower attachment. Then it doesn't matter how much snow you get because you won't be pushing it.

[mbull]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Put tubes in the tires and fill them with washer fluid. Part of your problem is the aluminum rear...it's about 55 lbs lighter than the cast iron rear. I have about 300 lbs on my 782 with aluminum rear and 2-link chains. You have 4-link chains. 2-link chains would help, but I'm not sure they'd make a big difference. I've found it's just about equally easy to spin tires with either type of chain on them, given the same amount of weight.

If I were you I'd start looking for a snowblower attachment. Then it doesn't matter how much snow you get because you won't be pushing it.

Matt, Thanks for the suggestions. I've thought about filling the tires, but not sure I want all that extra weight when I'm mowing. Lawn is very steep, but I generally get good traction. Just worry that the extra weight will wear on the drivetrain. As for the blower, I'm not sure. I have a walk behind blower that I want to sell - partially because I'm tired of maintaining it, partially because it is so slow, and partially because we live on an open hill and often the wind blows that snow right back in my face.. sooo cold! I like the plow because with most snows - four or five inches or less - it is much faster than the blower. I guess a tractor-mounted blower is faster than a walk behind. Do these things move the snow out pretty fast?

[jbollis]

MBULL
, Check the videos out in this thread. I also have a description of my set up on there to.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=8133

[mbull]

Originally Posted by jbollis

MBULL
, Check the videos out in this thread. I also have a description of my set up on there to.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=8133

Thanks for these pointers. I watched the video and it sure looks like you get a lot more traction than I have been. I think my 1811has the potential to do what I need, so will probably invest in more weight and better chains. Thanks!

[ACecil]

Great action pics, Bill!

[Dave01]

I used to plow with a JD 214 with very similar setup to yours - 42" plow, bucket of sand on the back, 4 link chains. I had the same problem you do, couldn't push much, used it more as a battering ram.

Now on my 2084 I have 74# wheel weights, 2 link chains, and I put steel in my utility box (nice job building that box by the way!). It's night and day different, I can push a 54" plow with no problem. I didn't fill the tires, didn't want to be bothered if I could avoid it, and I've found no need. I only have maybe 100# of steel in the box and could add more as needed.

Get some scrap steel to put in your box instead of the bucket, the weight will be low and you can double it. Then you either need the heavier wheel weights, or fill the tires, or both would be best. You'll be amazed at what it can push.

[mbull]

Originally Posted by Dave01

I used to plow with a JD 214 with very similar setup to yours - 42" plow, bucket of sand on the back, 4 link chains. I had the same problem you do, couldn't push much, used it more as a battering ram.

Now on my 2084 I have 74# wheel weights, 2 link chains, and I put steel in my utility box (nice job building that box by the way!). It's night and day different, I can push a 54" plow with no problem. I didn't fill the tires, didn't want to be bothered if I could avoid it, and I've found no need. I only have maybe 100# of steel in the box and could add more as needed.

Get some scrap steel to put in your box instead of the bucket, the weight will be low and you can double it. Then you either need the heavier wheel weights, or fill the tires, or both would be best. You'll be amazed at what it can push.

Dave, Thanks for the tips. I'll keep an eye out for another set of wheel weights. I also just got 45# of old steel dumbbells, which I will put in my box. Watching for additional iron scraps. About fifteen years ago I had like a dozen or more old window weights, which would be perfect for this, but I have no recollection where they got off to. Also thinking about putting weight on the front to help keep the front end from sliding sideways when the plow is angled and I'm pushing heavy snow. Have a big brick of lead that is probably 75# and would work well.

[mbull]

Bill,
Thanks for the info. Nice pics! Are those hydraulic lines on the front of your rig? If so, what do you use them for? Can hydraulic lines be added to an 1811? Also, pretty sure my rear tires are 10.5" width. Do you think a narrower tire like yours gets more psi on the terrain and subsequently better traction in the snow and ice? Mark

[mbull]

Originally Posted by Wild Bill

Thanks Mark!

The hydraulic lines are for the power angle feature of my front blade. I can position the blade anywhere within it's range of motion left to right, from the tractor seat by moving a lever next to the lift lever on the dash

The front hydraulic ports are standard on the model 1712 (the tractor I have)

The model 1812 also has front ports as standard equipment. The only difference between your 1811, and the 1812, is the front ports.

You can add the front ports to your 1811, if you find somebody parting out any X82 style machine, and get the valve, handle, and lines. Then you have to get the angle cylinder set up for the blade.

If you are really ambitious, you can engineer and build your own set up also.

Yes, the narrower the tire, the less 'flotation' you have. An old set of 8.5" turfs with so-so looking wheels (my turfs are from the early 1970's...and the 1712 was made in 1985) are normally pretty cheap. plus, the 2 link chains are cheaper for the 8.5" wide tire vs the 10.5" tire.

In the spring, I swap the weighted 8.5" turfs and chains, with 10.5" Carlisle Super Lugs

Bill,
Saw this set of wheels on bay. The bolt pattern seems to match my hubs. Think they seem like a reasonable price given they have chains as well?

http://cgi.ebay.com/EWC-23x8-5-12-Al...ht_3994wt_1135