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#1
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Hoping for some Kohler experience here!
Ok, First now that I have the pin out of the camshaft, Cam doesn't seem to want to come out. Haven't found the right path yet- unless I'm missing something?? Next, I have currently a style "c" piston. They talk in the manual at great length for 181-301 engines with style A or D pistons on what rod it will take. What rod does the "c" piston suppose to have. Will my Kohler replacement piston be a Mahle made piston like the D-style or do they sell only the C-style for K341's?? Bore is currently std, so hopefully it will cleanup @ 0.030 or less. Lifters are toast. Need to get the valves out still. I want to get this to the machine shop Monday to get it back asap. |
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#2
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There is more than likely a shim between one end of the cam shaft and the block. Just rotate and move it around and it will eventually work itself out. Sounds like it was in there a bit too tight. When you say pin, you are referring to the rod the runs full length thru the camshaft, correct?
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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#3
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Yep,
I was talking about the shaft which runs inside the camshaft. Is the rod bottom marked to know which way it goes onto the rod? The rod has black paint on one side. The other has a cast in "L". Guessing Kohler has a part number and this would be Steins? How far does the sparkplug threads? It looks like 1/2 and the firing tang is flush? Just asking as it doesn't seem right. Seems like I've got a 1/2 reach plug in a 3/4 reach head??? Took out a autolight 216 Michael |
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#4
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The rod and cap have index marks, and the oil hole goes toward the cam.
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#5
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Bottom and top holes both face the cam on the rod??
Off to the machine shop today. Hopefully it will be good news. I had purchased a engine overhaul gasket set. I needed a seal and a couple gaskets so this was the cheapest way to go. Now I need a piston, rod??, lifters, govener, governer bushing. The rod looks pretty nasty with the parting line- casting. I might clean it up and then see if someone can shot-peen it locally for reasonble amount. |
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#6
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Ok,
I'm back from the machine shop. He said it looked to him like a botched ring job all the grooves around the cylinder. Good note: $45 to clean and bore it. He said it might clean up at 0.010,but buy a 0.020 OS piston to make sure. The crank mic'd at 1.499 and 1.497, so it needs to be ground. He said his equipement setup he only was setup for V8s. Went to someone he suggested and the guy said $60-70 to grind it and they need the rod? What's all this measure the part- I've always had parts come in on spec. I would be amazed if there was 0.001 +/- variation on piston skirt. Valves TBD. I'm guessing they will need replacement and possibly guides or K-liners. Michael |
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#7
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A good machine shop will always ask for the part in hand before doing any machining.
I will not do any machining till I have the mating part in hand, so I can measure with my tools and not second quess somebody's gauges/mikes/ tools, just to many varables to be considered. |
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#8
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Don' re-use connecting rods. Aluminum rods have a finite lifespan, so why take a chance when you don't know the history of the engine?
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#9
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What type of engine parts does NAPA Sell?
THey wanted list price $34 connecting rod, and $109 for the piston in any size. I guess there is Steins, Primerline, and Kohler. China, Taiwan, German/usa Michael |
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#10
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With those prices, my guess would be 'not Kohler'.
I think a Kohler rod through most places is about $80, and that piston is probably north of $200. Try your Kohler part numbers here...this place has pretty good prices. Remove the KH and any spaces or hyphens from the part number when you do a search. The last time I bought a Kohler rod from them in 2009 it was $52. At any rate, this is probably the best place to get gasket sets, governor parts, and other random things. |
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