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Gentlemen, for those that do this for a living and have the experience of having done multiple rebuilds, what do you generally find for piston to bore clearances when checking machine work before assembling your engines? I see the spec in the manual at locations of just below the oil ring and also bottom of skirt. I was wondering how close you find your dimensions are to those specs when you get your blocks back from the machine shop. I know ideally they would be as spec'd but what do you find for actual dimensions?
I keep reading everyone should check and verify the shops work and new parts dimensions. Just curious if they're tight, do you hone to bring the bore to spec,........and if loose, how much before you question proceeding?The reason I'm asking, the machine shop I'm talking to is questioning the .0065 to .0095 clearance below the oil ring. To him it sounds a little loose so he wants to verify it's not a misprint. I figured what people actually see on multiple engine rebuilds would be proof as to what works or not. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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