Flex Joint

[_DX3_]

Considering what will be involved, just pull the drive shaft and replace all the flex discs and the front and rear ball bushings and all new spiral pins. You won't have to worry about it again for 15 maybe 20 years. I just did the whole thing to my 1711 late last year. Also to get the drive shaft out, you will need to loosen the four engine mount bolts and move the motor forward enough to make room to pull the drive shaft out.

[CADplans]

The last one I fooled with was REALLY hard to get it to align.

I think once those splines wear some, getting the driveshaft to not wobble is a real art.

Tighten this bolt, loosen that bolt, shim here, etc,,,,,,etc.....PHEW!!!

Did I miss something? Or, is there a better way?

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by CADplans

The last one I fooled with was REALLY hard to get it to align.

I think once those splines wear some, getting the driveshaft to not wobble is a real art.

Tighten this bolt, loosen that bolt, shim here, etc,,,,,,etc.....PHEW!!!

Did I miss something? Or, is there a better way?

I don't know CAD. Mine went together really well. The only part that was difficult was getting the motor moved back with one hand while getting the drive shaft to slide into the ball bushing with the other. Once I had that done, it all bolted up fine. Now you have me wondering if I did something wrong.

[CADplans]

Originally Posted by _DX3_

I don't know CAD. Mine went together really well. The only part that was difficult was getting the motor moved back with one hand while getting the drive shaft to slide into the ball bushing with the other. Once I had that done, it all bolted up fine. Now you have me wondering if I did something wrong.

There ain't nothing wrong, if the driveshaft spins "true".

Mine was flopping around like a baby rattle!!

Tweak, tweak,,,,,,, The worn 128 style driveline looks good to me, after fooling with those discs!!

[Sam Mac]

I'm trying to get my tractors off the rag....joints LOL

[Mike McKown]

Another possibility:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-RELIANCE...-/300636837649

About 20+ years ago, I changed over 3-4 of my tractors from the rag coupling to the poly disc. These things are used as drive couplings between big electric motors and conveyor gearboxes and probably other uses. They're extremely tough!

I used them for several years and they worked without distortion. Of course I put in new driveshafts, couplings, balls or whatever was required to repair worn steel parts. I don't know how long they will last because I only used the tractors daily for a few years and then parked them. They're still in the tractors today.

[Darrell]

You don't have to unbolt the engine to pull the driveshaft.

Knock the pins out of the front/rear coupler , unbolt the front/rear couplers and the driveshaft will slide far enough in the adaptor bolted to the flywheel to clear the stub shaft. You may have to slide the rear coupler forward also , i can't remember for sure.

You may have to work the driveshaft around to make it slide thru the front coupler or pry the coupler back.

This will work on QL's also.

This is one of the first areas i look at when i get a new Cub. Seems like when i get a hydro Cub with the plastic hydro fan there are blades missing or no blades at all , especially on a QL.

[scottmi65]

Originally Posted by _DX3_

Considering what will be involved, just pull the drive shaft and replace all the flex discs and the front and rear ball bushings and all new spiral pins. You won't have to worry about it again for 15 maybe 20 years. I just did the whole thing to my 1711 late last year. Also to get the drive shaft out, you will need to loosen the four engine mount bolts and move the motor forward enough to make room to pull the drive shaft out.

Hey DX3 you were right both ball joints and the shaft were chewed up so made a new shaft today and will put here back together. When I bought the tractor the 6 bolts on the engine pan were either loose or missing so that probably did not help the drive joints.
Thanks