1450 hydrostatic transmission question

[clint]

(edit) I done a google search, found the info on the split in the white plastic ring, also info about the o-ring in the inside. I have a lathe, I guess I will try taking it apart to replace this o-ring, the most I could do is destroy the check valve, in which case I need to replace it anyway. Both check valves are leaking some, the one that looks to have been modified already made need replaced.

I have been working on my 1450 getting some small things that are adding up being a true pain in the rear overall !! I have also gave up trying to find the intermittent no crank problem (will turn over, but have to jump hot wire to coil to start) and will order a wiring harness, and a ingnition switch and be done with that.

Now my transmission question, I'm leaking fluid out of the top of both my check valves. I removed the one leaking the most, it's not shooting up out of the top, just a steady small stream. However while cranking I did see it shooting up out of the small hole in the middle. The check valve looks good from what I can see, however there is a white plastic ring, and an o-ring, the white plastic ring/washer is broken in one place. I assume if fluid gets by this part it will go into the holes at the top of the check valve and then come out of the top is that correct ? I done a search with no luck, I will try searching this site using google to see if I can find more on check valves. I think someone has already worked on the check valves in the past, is the correct setup one manual, and one automatic check valve ? Would this cause any problems ? Also I didn't have this problem when I purchased it, about 2 or 3 days later of course it starts leaking, however the man said it had sit for a long time in a shed. I still have not purchased a service manual for it, I'm sure the service manual is not available online for free anywhere is it ? Also another thing I found, I noticed I had very little range of hydro speed, I found while working on the check valves the plate on side of transmission that the rod from hydro lever goes to is worn inside the track, I'm not sure if I'm going to look for a replacement for this, or try to fix this track.

The o-ring for the check valve, is it a standard o-ring, or a special order item ? If anyone has a part number, or info for a replacement at one of the autozone type stores I would appreciate any and all help.

thanks and sorry for the bombardment of questions. I'm trying to get this cub in mechanical, electrical, hydraulic sound shape, then maybe I will think about restoring it LOL !!

[Yosemite Sam]

The white ring (washer) comes that way, it has to have a split in it or you can't get it on or off.

I got new rings and washers for one of mine some time ago, I layed them down some place and can't remember where I put them?!. Guess I'll run across them sometime... I think they were kinda spendy but not sure exactly how much. Do what you want, but these are one of those things that I wouldn't try to get at an auto parts store.

There are also "O" rings inside the valves, these are what cause them to leak around the stem. You can try to "swell" these rings with brake fluid, repair the valves, or replace them. Someone here knows where you can get the valves for a decent price, but I'm not him (maybe he will tell us again). Here are a couple of links that show how to repair the valves. http://cubfaq.com/relief1.html and http://cubfaq.com/relief2.html

As far as the Trunion problem you are having, here is a link for that (do a google search for "Cub Cadet trunion repair" and you should get several other decent hits). http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

If you do that then you will need http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

The "Correct Police" should be along soon to discredit everything I have told you so watch for his post.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[clint]

My problem I'm pretty sure is the slot in number 6, thanks for that link a lot of very good info.

[R Bedell]

Clint:

You have an odd situation there. You have one Manual Type of Check Valve and one Automatic Type. The Manual type doesn't look like a Cub Cadet type of valve. You may want to consider changing them out.

Click on this link to our Technical Library Section..... Valves

[klejeune]

That pic looks familiar. Maybe it was on the old site that we talked about that valve looking like it was ground down to pop up the manual unloading valve. In any case, I would advertise for a good used self-unloading valve and be done with it. Or buy a new one from the place listed in the link Rolland posted.

[clint]

I posted the pics on my first post when I joined this site. I will replace the modified valve soon, however it's the other one that leaking so bad. I'm going to take it apart, and see if I can fix it first.. I gotta see LOL

Now tell me what you think, I'm 99.99% sure I can get a ceramic check valve ball the exact same size as the stainless ball. Would this be of any benefit or detraction to the check valve to replace the stainless ball with a ceramic ball ? I could also get a stainless ball if the ball is the main component of the sealing, other than the internal o-ring.

We have found that the ceramic check valves (at work) outlast the ceramic, and also give longer service life of no cleaning etc. However this repair from reading is a one shot deal... unless someone got real brave and threaded the hat so that it could be taken apart at will.

Clint

[R Bedell]

Clint:

It is NOT the check valve ball that is causing the problem, there is an internal "O Ring" that is bad.

You have two options...
(A) If you have the tools and talents, then one can open up the check valve and replace the O Ring. Then putting it all back together and so it holds is the trick.
(B) The easy way is just to replace the valve. The link above affords the supplier with the most attractive price that we have found.

[clint]

I worked on the check valve today, I should have taken some pictures, it was very simple. The problem was not the internal o-ring, but the large spring was broken. I replaced it with one to an exact match, found in a gun smith box of springs. The only place I would change is spot welding the cap/hat back on, it needs to be soldered or brazed, just touched.

Now that I have this one fixed, of course the other one is now leaking as bad as this one was, so I may just buy two of them and be done with the entire thing, and have a spare just in case...

Now on to better subject (I will make a new post) my 9 year old got his first cub today a 122