782 Moldboard Plow Setup

[danfeste]

Found the problem. The big pin in the rear lift was too long, its the pin for using a 400 tiller so it was 1 1/2 longer than a normal pin. It was causing the adaptor to drop down to far, and then the adaptor would hit the straps when it came up. For anyone else setting up a 782 for plowing, to get a plowing depth of 6" I used the bottom holes on the lower 3 point bracket, and the middle hole on the adaptor lifting straps. That's with the tractor hydraulic lift all the way down and using a 10" plow.

[Farmall450]

Originally Posted by danfeste

Found the problem. The big pin in the rear lift was too long, its the pin for using a 400 tiller so it was 1 1/2 longer than a normal pin. It was causing the adaptor to drop down to far, and then the adaptor would hit the straps when it came up. For anyone else setting up a 782 for plowing, to get a plowing depth of 6" I used the bottom holes on the lower 3 point bracket, and the middle hole on the adaptor lifting straps. That's with the tractor hydraulic lift all the way down and using a 10" plow.

I'll try this out. Thanks (zombie thread).

[RoseHillFarmIHCC125]

Wow I didn’t know you were supposed to start in the center of your garden then work your way out by always turning right. Most YouTube videos they just plow the first furrow, then back up and put the tires in the furrow then repeat.

[finsruskw]

You will have a big hump in the middle that way.
I always plow one way one year, and then the other way the next year, in the fall of course. This, in a garden about 30' wide.
Then in the spring I till.

But if you have a really wide plot that is longer you could plow one way on one side, then move to the other side and go the opposite direction but then you will have a "dead furrow" in the center and that is a hassle as well to contend with.
The dead furrows always seem to generate issues at plow days for in BIG fields you will have numerous dead furrows.

When you are finished with the garden in the fall, if you don't plow, at least fill the holes where you dig spuds or pull large plants out and scatter any trash so it won't build up under the coulter next year and so it can get cut by the coulter & folded into the furrow you are closing. Then spring tilling won't be such a hassle. Some of my customers' gardens look like a battle field full of bomb craters in the spring and it makes tilling a real PITA.

Good luck and have fun!!

[RoseHillFarmIHCC125]

The only tiller I have is a Troy-Bilt (MTD) super bronco. Very light weight compared to the Horse of yesteryear. Do you use a tractor driven tiller?

[Farmall450]

Originally Posted by RoseHillFarmIHCC125

Wow I didn’t know you were supposed to start in the center of your garden then work your way out by always turning right. Most YouTube videos they just plow the first furrow, then back up and put the tires in the furrow then repeat.

They're doing that because of the small size. Doing a few acre field with an antique tractor, you'd do the loops and end up with 2x dead furrows on the edges of the field.

[RoseHillFarmIHCC125]

Ahhh gotcha. Makes sense.

[finsruskw]

I have a #2 on a 1450 to do all my tilling plus customers in the spring.

[Farmall450]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

I have a #2 on a 1450 to do all my tilling plus customers in the spring.

How do you quote tilling jobs?