122 PTO Clutch Removal

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Nailhead

It's part of a cobalt steel bit set I bought at Fastenal several years ago, which has always performed really well drilling steel. I had started with a 9/64 for quicker drilling, and because it looks to be the size of the screw minus the thread depth, if that makes any sense.

I've already got a #7/1/4-20 combo that I used for grounding equipment in my previous life, so I got that going for me.

Thank you very much for the write-up-- I really do appreciate it. Tonight, I'm going to forget about the little parasite, and tomorrow (or whenever), I'll decide whether I want to devote further time/energy/money/garage space to it. There's a National Guard training camp in eastern Wyoming that loves stuff like this for their gunnery range, and that continues to be tempting.

9/64 is .1406 It's on the small side for difficult materials. ( as in too easy to quickly lose an edge ) The Fastenal drill set should be a decent one if it's a Made in the USA set.

[Sprint60]

Originally Posted by ironman

I think I read somewhere that just tapping the center button with a hammer while you put rotate pressure on the basket, it will move a little bit with each tap. Never tried it though.

I did that on '147-Ni!' with success. It was badly corroded, broken flat spring and seized tight; nothing else seemed to work. Twisted it with one hand, tapped the button with a mallet. Felt like I was being a bit heavy handed but I knew that the button was worn out and needed replaced anyway. I'm pretty sure putting a puller on it after it started moving would have worked too.

Once it was off it was cleaned up, surfaces turned, new kit and buttons installed and it's been running the tiller this spring. The pitting was pretty bad, the machinist was worried he'd taken too much off and I used the back side of the flat plate after dressing it up with some fine wet/dry on glass.

I used a new T-handle wrench on the set screws. Soaked 'em with PB for several days before trying them.

[Nailhead]

Originally Posted by Sprint60

I did that on '147-Ni!' with success. It was badly corroded, broken flat spring and seized tight; nothing else seemed to work. Twisted it with one hand, tapped the button with a mallet. Felt like I was being a bit heavy handed but I knew that the button was worn out and needed replaced anyway. I'm pretty sure putting a puller on it after it started moving would have worked too.

Once it was off it was cleaned up, surfaces turned, new kit and buttons installed and it's been running the tiller this spring. The pitting was pretty bad, the machinist was worried he'd taken too much off and I used the back side of the flat plate after dressing it up with some fine wet/dry on glass.

I used a new T-handle wrench on the set screws. Soaked 'em with PB for several days before trying them.

The "hammer tap" method worked great.

[Nailhead]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

9/64 is .1406 It's on the small side for difficult materials. ( as in too easy to quickly lose an edge ) The Fastenal drill set should be a decent one if it's a Made in the USA set.

It is indeed made in USA.

I checked out Precision Twist & Guhring: the PT's are available at Amazon, as are the hideously expensive Guhring's. Neither are inexpensive.

I located a carbide-tipped twist drill at buydrillbits.com, described as "super heavy duty, for hardened metals". It's the same price as the two you mentioned. What do you think?

[Nailhead]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

Set screws are made of tough material.

Jeff

You know what I think is really funny about this? These set screws are made of some sort of metal that is soft as a split shot when you put a hex key to it, but as soon as you have to drill it, it turns diamond hard. Pretty trick.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Nailhead

It is indeed made in USA.

I checked out Precision Twist & Guhring: the PT's are available at Amazon, as are the hideously expensive Guhring's. Neither are inexpensive.

I located a carbide-tipped twist drill at buydrillbits.com, described as "super heavy duty, for hardened metals". It's the same price as the two you mentioned. What do you think?

If you can remove the engine and get it under a drill press, then they will work great. You need constant even pressure. Any variation in direction ( like the hand held drill motor moving in the hole ) will break the edge or break the tip off.

Originally Posted by Nailhead

You know what I think is really funny about this? These set screws are made of some sort of metal that is soft as a split shot when you put a hex key to it, but as soon as you have to drill it, it turns diamond hard. Pretty trick.

Shame it wasn't the other way. Sounds like it wasn't heat treated correctly.

[Nailhead]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

If you can remove the engine and get it under a drill press, then they will work great. You need constant even pressure. Any variation in direction ( like the hand held drill motor moving in the hole ) will break the edge or break the tip off.



Shame it wasn't the other way. Sounds like it wasn't heat treated correctly.

I think the set screw was boogered before I got a hold of the tractor-- that might be why I got it, along with the bent center deck casting. The set screws were two different sizes (1/8 & 9/64, IIRC), and the pointed one was on top of the inner one, which struck me as questionable.

The drill press thing ain't happening: I have alotted a certain amount of time & money to this project, and the purchase of a drill press to work on what is essentially a toy (I don't even have a yard this would be suitable to mow) exceeds what is fiscally sensible. I'll give hand-held drilling another try, and if that doesn't work, I see no other sensible alternative than to give it up. Too many other projects with better cost/satisfaction ratios. I saw the 122 in a customer's driveway, it reminded me of the one my grandfather had, but it may have pushed me too far for sentimentality to rationalize. I guess I've run low on motivation after a whole winter of rebuilding the deck and stumbling over the whole mess in my shop.

We'll see how drilling this hand-held goes, but if it doesn't work out, I'm twisting off to work on a Land Rover or M715-- machines whose problems aren't out of proportion to their size or usefulness.

[Nailhead]

Alright, attitude improved, desire to work on the 122 slowly returning, a bunch of drill bits ordered.

What else would I do with a rainy day but work on the CC?

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Nailhead

Alright, attitude improved, desire to work on the 122 slowly returning, a bunch of drill bits ordered.

What else would I do with a rainy day but work on the CC?

That's good to hear. In my previous post I was not suggesting you purchase a drill press just for this job but meant if you had one ....

[ironman]

For extraction, I was wondering if anyone has tried using these things. Kinda similar to an easy out, but you can go both ways, loosen and tighten. Looks doubtful though that the 1/4 inch one could go down the hole far enough to reach the lower allen screw.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=376