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  #41  
Old 07-23-2016, 04:53 PM
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I got the coupler off, it is shot. The new one fits sung. I just checked the driveshaft fitment to the new coupler and it is too loose. The bushing has to come out and the correct on installed.

Another question, the spiral pin broke off inside the shaft. What is the easiest way to remove the rest. I am thinking use a small drill bit and then a small punch. What have y'all used?
Glad to hear that the hydro spline is usable..yeah ...that`s a BIG relief..
dont use drill to get a 1/8 pin out ..no no as others have said...
get 1/8 pin punch
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  #42  
Old 07-23-2016, 06:14 PM
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Glad to hear that the hydro spline is usable..yeah ...that`s a BIG relief..
dont use drill to get a 1/8 pin out ..no no as others have said...
get 1/8 pin punch
Good advise! But take a set like those...

I know, I know I'm a big Starrett fan boy but since it's American made and they still do the job after
more than 20 years in my tool chest, maybe I'm right this time
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File Type: jpg starrett punch.jpg (14.0 KB, 104 views)
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1988 2072 401 54" hyd angled blade
1988 1872 364 snowblower/C50 deck
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1963 100 (red)/in storage
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  #43  
Old 07-23-2016, 06:56 PM
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Gilles ....your tools look like they have never been used in 20 years ...you should see mine






..been in my toolbox since 1968
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  #44  
Old 07-23-2016, 08:54 PM
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I have a 1/8 pin driver. What is the best way to support the input shaft? I could put everything back together and then support it with the jack again. The ends were broke because there was so much movement on the coupler. Now there just a piece left in the input shaft. I have been soaking it with Pbb blaster as well.
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  #45  
Old 07-23-2016, 10:27 PM
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Also, I have a 1864 drive shaft and cv joints on the shelf so would that work in the 1872 with the proper adapters?
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  #46  
Old 07-23-2016, 10:29 PM
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I have a 1/8 pin driver. What is the best way to support the input shaft? I could put everything back together and then support it with the jack again. The ends were broke because there was so much movement on the coupler. Now there just a piece left in the input shaft. I have been soaking it with Pbb blaster as well.
Yeah well, go ahead and put the coupling back on and jack support behind it then. Hopefully, the broken pin will come out without too much fight. The idea is to reduce the side force on the hydro bearing as you pound. Start with a series of light taps ...
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  #47  
Old 07-23-2016, 10:34 PM
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Yeah well, go ahead and put the coupling back on and jack support behind it then. Hopefully, the broken pin will come out without too much fight. The idea is to reduce the side force on the hydro bearing as you pound. Start with a series of light taps ...
Yep, I think that would be best. I will try it Friday. Thanks.
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  #48  
Old 07-23-2016, 11:30 PM
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Also, I have a 1864 drive shaft and cv joints on the shelf so would that work in the 1872 with the proper adapters?
I was also wondering which cyclops driveshaft would work on the 1872
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  #49  
Old 07-23-2016, 11:33 PM
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No matter what shaft you use, the length will have to be adjusted. I believe no matter what, you have to make it longer. Whether it came from an SGT or not. You can use one from any machine, if you make the length correct.
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  #50  
Old 07-24-2016, 06:48 AM
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Shaft from an 1882 is a bolt in, you'll need the CV pump adapter (JeffinPA) and you'll have to drill and tap the pump input shaft.
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