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  #21  
Old 09-25-2010, 04:02 PM
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You can just use 2 pins, but I think the idea behind that piece is to allow you to easily disconnect the hydraulic cylinder from the rockshaft. If you use 2 clevis pins, you will have a really hard time getting the cotter keys in the back side of them.
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  #22  
Old 09-29-2010, 07:17 PM
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I have found a power steering unit from a 2082 that I would like to put on this 1860/189. Is there anything different about the front axle other than the steering arm that would not work? As far as the steering arm goes, I would imagine the hole is just closer to the wheel so I should be able to drill a new hole to match up with the cylinder? I am also getting a set of front super rims, they will fit ok on the 1860 front axle? What do I need to know? I can get everything for the steering unit except the front axle and the dual spool valve. I figure I can just "T" into the lines on my hydraulic lines.
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  #23  
Old 09-29-2010, 07:55 PM
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The 1860 steering knuckle *should* have both holes already. The 1862 I parted years ago did. If not, I think the cyclops service manual has a drawing in it you could scale and use to figure out where the other hole goes. The two-spool valve setup for a cyclops is weird and you would have a hard time making that work on here. There's a diagram in this manual that shows you how to hook up the PS correctly. You're going to have to fab some stuff for the column since the column tube is about 3" long. The frame mount for the cylinder is pretty different between the supers and the standard-frame GTs. I don't think the super one will work on a GT because the footrest is in the way. It'd be easy to make though.
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  #24  
Old 09-29-2010, 08:27 PM
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Thanks Matt, I have never seen one in person so I don't even know how it is attached to the SGT. I had always assumed the shaft and valve body where fairly short and would be up inside the dash, but looking at some diagrams it appears the shaft is as long as a standard steering shaft and the valve/steering box ends up near the bottom of the frame? Right, wrong, sorta.........?
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  #25  
Old 09-29-2010, 08:53 PM
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The actual steering box is very short and connects at the bottom. A long shaft connects to it and is connected to the box with a CV joint; the cyclops models have a tilt wheel, so that is how that is accomplished.
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  #26  
Old 09-29-2010, 09:01 PM
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Thanks Matt, I have my hands full but it will get done. Trying to figure out placement of everything, etc..... Hope you keep an eye on this post as there will be more questions to come.
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  #27  
Old 11-07-2010, 02:11 PM
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The PS and other parts should be here today so I can get started up on this again. Also, I miss quoted the donor tractor for these parts. They are from a 2072.
As far as a cat0 hitch, would I need one made for a SGT or a GT? I know I will need the shorter arm from the lift cylinder to the rockshaft, but are the lift arms on the hitch longer because of the larger rear tires? Would the rockshaft and plate be the same for both GT and SGT?
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2010, 02:17 PM
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The SGT hitch is completely different because of the provision for a rear PTO, but you can put a GT hitch on an SGT with a shorter lift bar. There is enough adjustment range in the lower arms that I wouldn't think you'd have problems. On my 782D, I can just about make the lower arms drag on the ground if I want to.
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  #29  
Old 11-07-2010, 02:24 PM
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I was thinking more on the lines of, are the lift arms long enough to get the implements out passed the back of the tires for good clearance? I understand the adjustment to get them lower to the ground, just concerned about the rear of the tires.
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  #30  
Old 11-07-2010, 02:24 PM
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Would this work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
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