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#31
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I got some linkages hooked up today.
Whenever you take something this old apart you find lots of little things that need attention. There are two T-bolts that hold and tension the hood to the bezel. Well there is if one isn’t missing and has been replaced with just a bolt that is sorta doing the job. So I made a T-bolt. Now I’ve been welding over fifty years had many certifications, so I consider myself fairly aware. A couple days ago doing some little tacks in the hood, I had a few bubbles, that I attributed to contamination. Today welding the T-bolt, I got porosity. Hmm, bit of galvanize probably. Grind it out and do it again. Same thing. It took one more time to realize I was out of shielding gas. DOH!! My throttle control needed a little fix too. Somebody buggered the threads on one end and drilled it through and put a nut underneath. Not handy. I took a 10-24 wood nut, knocked the cleats off and tacked that on. Lots of thread. |
#32
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I was going to get lots of stuff bolted back onto the frame today when I realized I hadn’t painted all the stripped and cleaned bolts. So I did that.
I made a couple of plates to replace the way oversized washers on the grill and hood support. Those slots are long wide and sloppy. I got the bezel and hood back together and the new LED lights in there. The LED’s are remarkably brighter. You can see the new and old side by side in the one pic. I cleaned all the electrical terminals and took out the only non factory wiring there was. A PO had added a switch in the dash and a three wire cord to go to a flasher at the rear for taillights. I’ll rewire that if I think I need them. The wiring is in very condition actually. I’m going to rewire the headlights and that’s it. I loosely bolted in the hydro control and steering column and set the dash tower over that. I think I’ll assemble as much as I can tomorrow to free up some bench space. Fuel tank and brackets are next in line. |
#33
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They look good too, I think.
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#34
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Got the dash back together, mounted on the tower and all the wires hooked up. The little bolt holes in the dash tin were enlarged so much I had to use some stainless upholstery washers.
It probably took two hours of fiddling, nudging adjusting and sticking my tongue both sides of my mouth to get the tower, dash, hood and front support to finally line up half decent. The other half of decent can go to heck. I decided to add an edge bead to the rear of the hood to break things up and quiet rattles. I’m trying to decide if I should work on the engine next and just finish up the whole front end. Or carry on with stripping and painting the fenders and seat pan. I completely rebuilt the engine a few years ago, so nothing major. I have to cut off and extract the leftover thread from the exhaust elbow. There is just enough oil leaking from the valve cover to attract and build up dirt. Set the valves and check points and timing. Paint the tins. And I should go through the starter/generator |
#35
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That piece of edging you have on the rear of the hood is going to wear right down into the fiberglass of the cowl if you are not careful to keep it adjusted so it is not touching it.
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#36
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I have the exact same edging in my 149 for a number of years now.
There is no problem with wear whatsoever, however the edging tends to stick to the cowl and has pulled some paint off. |
#37
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Key words here are
"if you are not careful to keep it adjusted so it is not touching it" |
#38
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Key words here are
"has pulled some paint off" |
#39
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I do have the hood support adjusted to limit contact.
A question I do have though; is there a factory hood support rod or cable for this tractor? I really don’t like the way it rests when open. I made a rod for a Massey hood, but the mounting points were there already |
#40
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You can make one out of a chain. Do you have the left and right hood latches?
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