1872 front PTO wires burned/melted

[Steve N Mi]

I bought this Super the end of June and it did start and run when I would insert a jumper as shown by the PO. He claimed the PTO switch was no good and if I replaced it, all would be well once more. The jumper was a short piece of wire inserted into the female plug slots for the 2 red wires for the PTO sw.

After buying a new switch and installing it, the tractor failed to turn over at all. I started looking at the wiring and didn't get far before I noticed that both the feed and ground leads going to the front PTO were taped up. The electrical tape was poorly done (really a bad job) and was covering several inches of bare wire, the insulation had burned or melted off and the copper wire was even a little crispy.

I was afraid I wouldn't be able to keep this short - I want to give any brave soul that offers help, background to better describe the problem. Oh, the Magnum was replaced by a K Command. The original engine had internal problems and not suitable for rebuild - so I was told by the PO. Maybe the meltdown was caused by a HOT engine before it quit, I'm only guessing. I think these pto's normally draw only a few amps, right? Not enough to melt wire insulation or am I wrong about this?

I have a wiring diagram thanks to R Bedell (I will give credit to the OCC member once I track down who it was that sent it to me), so I may be able to follow along if someone will point me to a starting point or trouble shooting path. Thanks for any help, Steve

[R Bedell]

I can help if you like.

Focusing in on the "starting" of the engine. There are two things that have to occur. (A) The PTO switch has to be in the OFF position, and (B) the Brake Pedal switch has to be depressed. Now, this is in consideration, that the wiring and components are in good working order, and that it is wired correctly.

[FrankF3]

How is the fuse/fuseholder on the dash pedestal. My father told me last night he has a no-start condition, then told me while getting on the tractor his foot wiped the fuseholder right off. (He is 84 and it does save me time in troubleshooting it) If the fuse is blown, I believe it is a 20A fuse.

[Steve N Mi]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

I can help if you like.

Focusing in on the "starting" of the engine. There are two things that have to occur. (A) The PTO switch has to be in the OFF position, and (B) the Brake Pedal switch has to be depressed. Now, this is in consideration, that the wiring and components are in good working order, and that it is wired correctly.

Yes, I'd be happy to have your help. I hear you about A and B. I had a chance to look things over today and noticed the ignition switch had a fair amount of corrosion around the 5 spades. I tried to unplug it to clean it, the two had become one. I took the sw. out and pried the plug off. I now have a new switch and will buy a plug pigtail when I identify a source. I see some on eBay but maybe I can get one locally tomorrow.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Wi...3D181725389121

It is a wonder it started and ran the 10 or so times after I got it home in late June.

[Steve N Mi]

Originally Posted by FrankF3

How is the fuse/fuseholder on the dash pedestal. My father told me last night he has a no-start condition, then told me while getting on the tractor his foot wiped the fuseholder right off. (He is 84 and it does save me time in troubleshooting it) If the fuse is blown, I believe it is a 20A fuse.

My fuse is 20 amp and fine. I can see it happening with a misplaced foot while mounting the tractor. I have bumped the PTO sw. a couple of times causing a no-start condition on my other 1872.

[R Bedell]

That pigtail is all well, fine and good.

BUT..........you could fix this problem for less than $3.00

You could go to your local Auto Parts Store (ie: NAPA) and buy some "fully insulated Female Disconnects" in the 14-16GA (Blue). Cut off the plug, strip back, and crimp on these Disconnects. You just have to make sure that the proper wire goes on the proper terminal. This is in consideration that you have a decent Crimp Tool.

[ol'George]

A couple years ago it was posted on here the packard plug number for the plug.
I don't remember it without a lot of research.
hopefully somebody will post.

[Steve N Mi]

Okay, I have the female disconnects in 3 wire sizes on hand and a good set of Thomas & Betts Sta Kon crimp pliers. I will work on it asap. I used this method on another garden tractor.

Merry Christmas, Steve

Update

The largest wire size for the disconnects I have is 14, it will be near impossible to squeeze two wires into one of these. There are two blue wires and two white wires terminating at the switch. I think a pigtail splice will be the answer if I can't find the particular connector I'm looking for. One female branching to two male spades.

[Steve N Mi]

Here is the 1872 electrical wiring diagram you sent me.

Can you provide the info for Note A referenced in this print?

I commented before that this drawing doesn't really represent the actual way things are on the 1872. The double leads terminating on one spade is one example. The ganging of female plugs on the PTO switch is another example. The PTO switch only has 5 spades not 6 as shown in the print. One more, It shows 2 fuses in the print, I've got 3 1872's to look at and only find one fuse located on each (below dash center). If I were to add an in-line fuse for the lights (blue wire) I could use a single blue wire from this new fuse to the ign. sw. and pick up front and tail lights on the other side of fuse, 2 blue wires like the print shows. I know that this change has no effect on starting and running but it would be easier now with the gas tank out - save removing it again later.

[R Bedell]

Okay, I will handle one issue at a time.

Note A........

I will give you this. The IH/CCC Electrical Engineers done a poor representation of explaining this. For someone like me that has been looking at Wiring Diagrams and Schematics for 40+ yrs....I knew what they were talking about.

Some of Cub Cadet Super Tractors had a "optional rear PTO". IF......the tractor did, IH/CCC implemented a "directional switch" so the operator could select to either run the Front PTO or Rear PTO. The first attachment shows the PTO section of the OEM Diagram. The second image show the OEM diagram section color coded. The third image shows a more clear or better depiction of how this directional switch works. Finally.......IF.......your tractor does NOT have a Rear PTO...then the fourth image applies.