Are one stage blowers lame?

[jimaro]

I picked up a 1420 over the summer. I bought for snow removal. I didn't use it until a few weeks ago. I removed the deck and put the snowthrowerr attachment on it. I went to start it and it ran like crap. I figured out that the choke cable was bad. I replaced it and then i turned the start switch and nothing. After some troubleshooting (thanks Roland), I figured out the PTO switch was flaky. I fixed a gas leak, and put some chains on. It was go time. time to do some snowthrowing. Three inches of snow in the driveway. I set off and then the chute jammed. Cleared the jam and did some more blowing. about 5 jams. very frustrating and disappointing. Is this what I should expect from a one stage? Any thing to do for less jams?
Thanks jim

[bsyphrit]

from what i have read the one stage or snow "thrower" has the advantage of needing less horsepower to operate. the snow blower will throw it further but the biggest thing i see is the snow condition itself, if it is fresh and fluffy the thrower will work fine. if it is wet or packed you will have a jamming problem, but i suspect this is only a little less of a problem for the blowers. wet snow just doesn't like to move.
also do not know if the 1420 is a hydro, if it is you are good if it is a gear drive it is harder to run, you need to attack the snow at just the right speed so that the thrower and motor are laboring a little but not bogging down the motor or thrower.
i used mine twice in the last two weeks and i have a 300 foot drive, found that the snow that was driven over and was packed was harder to move then the fresh stuff, i am running a 125 with 22x10.5x12 and v bar chains. not extra weight added because i am plenty over weight enough to make it work, very little slippage but could tell if i would be using a blade more would be better.
and the last snow fall i hit was about 12 inches. have not had one plug up yet but i have had it kinda stop moving any thing and all i did was back up a couple inches and it picked right back up and worked like a champ.
hope this helps you aa little and thanks cub crazy for hooking me up with my Q36.

[outlawrider]

i used my 982 today with my single stage it worked fine and i have a lot of snow packed down with the tractor trailer in the yard.little trick is to spray the blower with pam cooking spray keeps mine from plugging up with wet heavy snow.

[R Bedell]

One of the things I have noticed here in Michigan, it doesn't really matter if one has a "Snowthrower" or "Snowblower". It is the type of snow. If it is wet and heavy, I have found that either will jam and plug up. If the snow it light and fluffy, they work really good. That is why I use both a snowthrower and a dozer blade based upon the type of snow at a given time.

[bsyphrit]

forgot to add engine speed is important, need to keep the rpms on the higher side. you are not going to move snow if the auger is not cranking it out of the way.

[Matt G.]

bsyphrit-

Not 'on the higher side'....Wide open throttle only. Never, ever run a snowthrower (or mower deck, etc) on a tractor with an air-cooled engine at less than full throttle while it is being worked.

[Yamaguy]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

bsyphrit-

Not 'on the higher side'....Wide open throttle only. Never, ever run a snowthrower (or mower deck, etc) on a tractor with an air-cooled engine at less than full throttle while it is being worked.

Why is tht Matt? when I mow I only run about 3/4 throttle and have never had a problem. I don't like to run things to the max if it's not needed.

[Mooner]

I always run mine at full throttle when working it. Somewhere I heard that air-cooled engines run cooler at full throttle and it puts less strain on the engine too.

[pulse301]

Yamaguy,

Here is a copy and paste from Troybuilt's FAQ about that:

http://troybilt.custhelp.com/app/ans...ll-throttle%3F

It is necessary to run an air cooled engine at its highest rpm for the following few reasons.

1. The engine’s cooling and lubrication systems are designed to operate best when the throttle control is in the highest position. Running the engine at a lower speed will decrease the flow of cooling air and the volume of oil circulated. These two factors will shorten engine life.
2. The engine’s carburetor is adjusted so that the engine operates most cleanly and efficiently at full throttle. Operating outside or below the optimum speed range for the engine and carburetor produces less power.
3. Everything driven by the engine (eg. cutting blades) is/are designed to turn at the speed maintained by the engine’s governor when the throttle is at the highest position. Running the engine at a lower speed will result in lesser performance and excess vibration.
4. Models equipped with engines that have DC electric starters and battery systems and have engines that recharge the battery may result in poor battery recharge rate if the engine is not operated at full RPM. These engines have stators that produce recharge electrical current to the battery circuit only when properly tuned and operated at full RPM. Most frequently the report of poor battery recharging can be traced to customers that do not keep the throttle at full. On tractors, and other self-propelled units, the engine should be kept at full throttle whenever possible and the ground speed should be regulated by shifting into a lower gear or using the ground speed control. Do not use the engine throttle to regulate ground speed or the battery will not get sufficient electrical current to maintain charge.



But if you want the hilarious way to get to the answer follow this link (I promise it is worksafe and clean, but also a great way to send something to a friend):

http://tinyurl.com/26wmu92

[Matt G.]

Originally Posted by Yamaguy

Why is tht Matt? when I mow I only run about 3/4 throttle and have never had a problem. I don't like to run things to the max if it's not needed.

The engine is designed to run under load at full throttle. You will do more harm than good by running it under load at less than full throttle. The amount of cooling airflow through the engine is directly proportional to the engine speed. By running it at 3/4 throttle you probably are actually working it harder than you would be if you were running it at full throttle. It may overheat and warp the exhaust valve, take the temper out of the rings, blow the head gasket, etc. if you do not mow/blow snow at full throttle. Just because you've never had a problem doesn't mean you won't. I know someone that let a guy borrow his Cub...the guy mowed at partial throttle with it ONCE and it overheated and annealed the rings, so now it uses oil like crazy.