Bought a Narrow Frame Blade, only to realize...

dieselsnowmobile · #1 10-01-2009, 06:43 PM

I saw an add for a narrow frame blade, so I went and drove many miles to get it. Since I am new to cubs, I did not realize until I got home that it is really a wide frame blade.

Ahh Crap.

So, I decided to rig up a way and it works. The blade frame comes incredilbly close to the steering arm, but misses it in both spots. Since I am using a cable to raise the blade, there is no down pressure, but I think the blade is heavy enough for that. I am going to mainly use it for snow anyway.

Here are some pics in case any of you accidentally buy a wide frame blade and want it to fit a narrow frame.

Diz Jr. · #2 10-01-2009, 08:37 PM

Hey , you got it on there

You should be fine for pushin snow. I never have had to put the float lock pin in mine, it always cuts good just floating.

IHinIN · #3 10-01-2009, 09:20 PM

I'm also trying to make a wide frame blade fit on my narrow frame 100 but my blade frame looks nothing like yours. The 2 supports that run towards the rear of the tractor have an inward offset in them and they wouldn't fit between the frame rails right so I cut both supports off just behind the brace plate and welded them back on on opposite sides. Now they are offset outward instead of inward and they fit perfectly between the frame and the foot rests. The front mounts had 1/2" pins meant to snap into the quick attach on the wide frame tractors. I simply made 2 plates that slide over the pins and bolt into the frame holes where the mule drive attaches.

CBH · #4 10-01-2009, 10:10 PM

Looks like it may work, but I believe that I'd be getting me a lift arm instead of using a cable. You could easily make the lift arm.

Matt G. · #5 10-02-2009, 08:31 AM

That all-thread is going to be a pretzel the first time you catch the front of the blade on something, even if it trips. I think there's too much of a gap between the subframe and the QA horns on the tractor for that to not bend the all-thread, but I guess we'll see.

klejeune · #6 10-02-2009, 10:40 AM

In the last pic it looks like the lift arm attached to the A frame is for a narrow frame, but the sub frame attached to the blade is for a wide frame. I think the seller just grabbed the wrong sub frame and put on there. As you can see the lift arm should be moved out wider than the frame horn that attaches to the front of the tractor frame. Otherwise you couldn't have a lift rod attached.

The seller was half right...

dieselsnowmobile · #7 10-02-2009, 12:41 PM

It was probably the previous previous owner that changed the sub frame to a wide frame while the A frame is for a narrow frame. The previous owner did not even use it. He said he was going to use it for a 108 (if I was a cub veteran, I would have said wait a minute, a 108 is a wide frame).

klejeune - You might be on to something. I cannot separate the A frame from the sub frame due to the sub frame being weld tight to the pivot point. When I take the blade off, I will have to post pictures of just the frames for you to see.

Matt G. - I will have to see if the all thread bends or not. I hope the back of the sub frame takes most of the pressure and keeps the all thread from bending. Worth a shot anyway.

CBH - I thought about having a steel arm to raise the blade instead of the cable, but the cable was handy and fast. I might eventually put one on it. I have a long piece of angle iron I could easily rig up.

dieselsnowmobile · #8 10-04-2009, 08:29 PM

Here are pictures of the blade just by itself. As you can see, I cannot separate the two frames. Not sure if I am suppose to be able to or not.

Randy Littrell · #9 10-04-2009, 10:37 PM

You can separate the two, just use a prybar and you can spread it apart enough to come off. I have done this plenty of times with no problem.

Randy

TEET · #10 10-04-2009, 10:56 PM

+1 on Randy's statement.

I had the same problem a few weeks back. Picked up a blade with a wide sub frame for my 127. Pried off the wide subframe, and pried on a narrow one. It looks tougher than it is, but a little gentle persuasion usually does the trick.

Just tweak everything back into shape before you put them back together. Clean and deburr the holes on the subframe, and the corresponding rod that goes through them to eliminate any binding.

Jeff (teet)