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Old 01-08-2010, 08:26 PM
clint clint is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 293
Default Need Pointers for rebuilding a k321 AQS

I'm in the process of rebuilding the K321 for my 1450. I have a good block that does not need to be bored out, I have read where some people recommend boring the block regardless or you will have smoking, and/or oil consumption. I have also read where some people recommend honing the bore while some say there is no need.. It is confusing while researching by so many different opinions, so I would like to hear opinions of the board.

I purchased a new rod, and after reading I think I found a older 16hp rod that is one of the better quality rods, however after so much reading I'm not sure it's any better than what came original two color. The rod was for a K-341 and part number is 45-167-16. My crank is in good shape as well, and will not need any work. This rod is new in the package.

Now I need to purchase a rebuild kit, and from reading some say the aftermarket is junk, while others say they are just as good as Kohler, and may very well be manufactured at the same place.. This is a decision I know I will have to make, and I have pretty much decided to go with the aftermarket stein brand, that is unless it is confirmed that the aftermarket parts are truly bad quality.. I do plan to keep this tractor for a very long time.

Someone has been into the valves before, and installed a brass bushing into the cast iron bushing. It looks like a shadetree job, off center, so I will be removing both cast iron guides, and installing new guides, and also I may install bronze lines inside these. I have done some research on this, and it seems the spiral grooves bronze liners really extend the life of the valves, and guides (valves stems ). I will also need to purchase new valves, I had one burned valve, the other looks ok, however while I'm working on the guides, I want to have new parts so I will not damage all the work on the valve guides. I would like opinions on valves as this seems also a big area of controversy. Stellite, old valves are built with better metal substrate than newer valves, etc, so pointers here would be helpful.

I have a cast iron oil pan to put on, I plan to paint the motor with dura-coat paint which I have had really good luck with in the past, however never put it on a motor..manufacture of paint does say it holds up to high temps very well.

This tractor will be used a lot, not a show piece. Also I have never rebuilt a motor before, so all I have to go by is manuals, internet research etc. I am a machine tech by trade, so I do have some small idea of mechanical mindset. I may have missed some things, so please chime in with anything I missed, or of importance.

Thanks, Clint
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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