Getting ready to put a for sale sign on the 104 (problems)

[Yosemite Sam]

Hold the bus guys...

Only so many things that will cause such problems.

When there are multiple problems like this (especially after a big tear-down like this was) break it down into manageable bits.

Since there is something of an element of danger with leaking fuel, start there. A dirty or worn out needle and seat, a leaking or sticking float or a cracked/broken carb are the only things that come to mind that will cause such problems. I have heard about carburetors that have been in a fire that don't work right and can leak but that's pretty extreme.

Rebuild the carb, make sure the float is adjusted properly and not full of gas.

There are only 3 real things that will cause a Kohler to overheat. Out of time, lack of air flow across the fins and a lean fuel mixture.

For timing a Kohler K series engine. The feeler gauge is ONLY used as a point of reference!!! Whatever your method of choice is, time the engine using the timing mark ("S") on the flywheel (See the tech section for instructions). If you time your Kohler "K" series engines with a feeler gauge you will NEVER have an engine that runs at its optimum.

You have said that the engine was rebuilt, so when the machine shop hot tanked the engine block that should have cleaned out everything in between the fins, so that should not be an issue.

A lean fuel issue can be caused by more things than simply adjusting the carb, a leak at the head gasket (improperly torqued, warped head, bad gasket, bad head) an air leak at or in the carburetor (bad gasket, worn throttle shaft or bore) or an improperly adjusted carburetor are probably the more common issues. The head should have been re-torqued at about a half an hour.

I'm sure some of the other guys here know of a number of other possible causes for the issues you have listed, but this should give you a place to start.

Did you run this engine hard to break it in after rebuilding?

Good luck.

[CADplans]

I did not hear any mention of a new condenser!!

That little puppie can really wreak havoc!!

As it fails, it throws off the timing.

[vartz04]

I already tore apart the carb there was some junk in it so now the float works and fuel doesn't pour out the air cleaner. Like I said previously that fixed the leaking fuel problem and the hard hot restart issue.

The condensor is new same with the points and all of the wiring.

I'll retourqe the bolts this afternoon the manual didn't say anything about doing it after 30mins.

I pulled a 1000lb yard roller around my semi hilly yard for an hour to break it in. Mowing was my next task but I can't keep driving this thing around with it backfiring or the neighbors are gonna get pissed.

So I am assuming mow that the carb is working right if I get the timing spot on with a timing light the backfiring should stop?

[austin8214]

Do you know how to static time it using a multimeter? The static time method is much better than using a light in my opinion. If it is back firing when you let off the gas or go down a hill it is very likely due to a rich condition. Have you adjusted the carb according to the manual yet? Also make sure there are no leaks in the exhaust.

So don't assume your carb is set correctly.

[vartz04]

I'll grab the multimeter while I'm over there too. The exhaust is leaking a bit by the clamp that hholds the muffler to the elbow. I'll try to fix that and reset the carb.

[austin8214]

It's important to get that exhaust leak sealed up. Especially if you are running rich. Unburt fuel will come out with the exhaust and mix with the air from that leak then hit the hot muffler and bang!

[cubfixer]

Two things come to mind that are pointed to by the others that have posted: Timing and fuel. Check your timing. Then check the high speed fuel screw by gently closing it, then turn it to 2 turns open. When your engine is warm and at load, push your throttle all the way open and look for black smoke coming fromm the muffler. If you have black smoke, then your high speed screw is too far out. Decrease by 1/4 turn til the black smoke and sluggish response go away.

If you get backfiring and overheating, the high speed screw is causing your engine to run too lean. Turn it out until you get just a little black smoke on suddenly opening the throttle. The backfires should go away.

In my experience, when my 124 backfires on shutdown, it is a timing problem. When it runs hot during mowing, it is a lean condition.

You have had a lot of problems, but you will get them straightened out.

[vartz04]

Well the timing was way off. Got that set on my lunch and we will see how she mows when I get home from work today. seems to start up way easier but I had to get back to work so I couldn't mess with it much

[austin8214]

Originally Posted by vartz04

Well the timing was way off. Got that set on my lunch and we will see how she mows when I get home from work today. seems to start up way easier but I had to get back to work so I couldn't mess with it much

Sounds like things are looking up!

[vartz04]

Well it runs 100 times better backfired once it smells a little rich still. The spindle belt broke though so I only got to mow for like 20mins. I'll get a new one in the am.

Governor still doesn't seem to be working. I'll double check the clamp on it later and reset it but it's not really doing its job