repower

Originally Posted by Merk

I would replace the pistons and rings by the looks of the piston in the picture. The upper left top/edge is burnt and the piston skirt has marks on it. If the piston is shows wear the cylinder will have wear too. One of your ealier post make comments about fingernail getting caught on a scratch in one of the jugs. That tells me it is time for bore-oversize piston and rings. Reusing used pistons are a waste of time and good money in my book. I've had motors show up at my place with low power and high oil usage because they thought they would save a few dollars by reusing old pistons or using a die grinder trick.

The majority of the time you will have taper in the cylinder wall if you measure it like Kohler wants you to measure it. A good motor rebuilder will measure it like Kolher recomends. I use a good motor machine shop to bore, hone and remove ridge at the top of the cylinder. They have the correct equipment and experence to do the job the right way.

Yes the way I do it cost more money in the beginning. My way will make more power and last longer.

Going back to his delimma-

Just rering for a couple of bucks or bore and new pistons for my guess...$300++. The real question is how long the rods and governor will last. Life will really suck if after all this effort and $$$ if after an hour of use he throws a rod and takes out a jug or he loses the governor and the whole motor.

So, is it $600 or $300 or $50.

Just another thought-

You are replacing a KT, the jugs should be the same as the M18, what condition are those in??????? Pistons?????????

Scott

[Merk]

by murphycc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merk
I would replace the pistons and rings by the looks of the piston in the picture. The upper left top/edge is burnt and the piston skirt has marks on it. If the piston is shows wear the cylinder will have wear too. One of your ealier post make comments about fingernail getting caught on a scratch in one of the jugs. That tells me it is time for bore-oversize piston and rings. Reusing used pistons are a waste of time and good money in my book. I've had motors show up at my place with low power and high oil usage because they thought they would save a few dollars by reusing old pistons or using a die grinder trick.

The majority of the time you will have taper in the cylinder wall if you measure it like Kohler wants you to measure it. A good motor rebuilder will measure it like Kolher recomends. I use a good motor machine shop to bore, hone and remove ridge at the top of the cylinder. They have the correct equipment and experence to do the job the right way.

Yes the way I do it cost more money in the beginning. My way will make more power and last longer.



Going back to his delimma-

Just rering for a couple of bucks or bore and new pistons for my guess...$300++. The real question is how long the rods and governor will last. Life will really suck if after all this effort and $$$ if after an hour of use he throws a rod and takes out a jug or he loses the governor and the whole motor.

So, is it $600 or $300 or $50.

Just another thought-

You are replacing a KT, the jugs should be the same as the M18, what condition are those in??????? Pistons?????????

I forgot to add a few things when I rebuild a motor. Here is something I post in Engine Overhaul Kit topic:

by Merk
Keep in mind the following pertains to my everyday/stock rebuild Kohler motors.
There is more to rebuilding-overhauling a motor than what this kit has in it. The following parts need replaced when rebuilding a Kohler motor:
piston
rings
connecting rod
governor-(if it is a plastic gear)
gaskets
crankshaft seals
new head bolts

Depending on how the parts look in the crankcase breather they may need replaced. I like to replace the crankcase breather filter when I rebuild a motor.

Odds are the valves will need ground or replaced and the valve guides will need replaced. The guides may be ok now....2 years later the guides will need replaced.....easier to replace now than 2 years from now.

I only use Kohler replacement piston(s) in my Kohler motors. The kit says the piston is top of the line....Kohler piston cost more and the quality is better.

I do not install a used connecting rod in a rebuilt motor. The material will weaken over time. The only connecting rod I will use in my Kohler is one made by Kohler. I had a few friends bring freshly rebuilt motors over because they had a knock in them. The Stens rod was the problem.

Best thing you can do is spend a few extra dollars on the good parts.

The only Kohler motors that I've rebuilt are are single cylinder K series motors. There may be a few things that I missed when it comes to rebuilding a 2 cylinder motor that pertains only to a 2 cylinder motor. The corrct Kohler manual will tell me what to look for.

[Matt G.]

On a twin, you may need new mains, and the journals on the crank may need to be turned. Undersize main bearings are available. I was told to replace the mains anytime the case has to be split.

Aftermarket pistons do not appear to be available; new OEM piston/ring assemblies are about $100 each.

[rwire125]

you guys all make good points but the way im looking at it and i might be wrong but if im not going into the crank and rods whats the scense in just boring and new pistons, and i agree just dglazing and new rings isnt the ultimit way to go for topnotch performance, but not knowing the motor and how it was takin care of, i think rering and see if it will hold togather till she looses her compression agine (thinking a couple years) with just rings ill know if this whole 782 tractor m18 motor combo is what i want to stay with (982 would be my ultimit) from my limited exp with these motors they are tuff engines but at this time i dont have the extra cash to spend on paying some one to split the cases and I dont have neather the equip or the knowlage to do it myself so for myself the rering seems to be the right thing to do

[Merk]

by rwire125
but not knowing the motor and how it was takin care of, i think rering and see if it will hold togather till she looses her compression agine

You statement in the above quote is the best reason to take the motor apart. The next time it may be a rod or a governor gear.....them there is a good chance the motor will be junk.

[rwire125]

Originally Posted by Merk

You statement in the above quote is the best reason to take the motor apart. The next time it may be a rod or a governor gear.....them there is a good chance the motor will be junk.

but at this time i dont have the extra cash to spend on paying some one to split the cases and I dont have neather the equip or the knowlage to do it


it would be great if i could do it in stages

Originally Posted by rwire125

but at this time i dont have the extra cash to spend on paying some one to split the cases and I dont have neather the equip or the knowlage to do it


it would be great if i could do it in stages

Eventually you'll to a point whereas you can do it in stages. Does your KT still run? Did you sell your 1811 roller yet? That roller will sell for about $300 and that's a good start on the M18 rebuild.

Scott

[rwire125]

Originally Posted by murphycc

Eventually you'll to a point whereas you can do it in stages. Does your KT still run? Did you sell your 1811 roller yet? That roller will sell for about $300 and that's a good start on the M18 rebuild.

Scott

yes the 17 runs decent only real problem is the front seal is leaking, and yes i still have the 1811, ive been qoted 800-1000 to rebuild but also can buy a long blk for 1100 with core change

Changing out the front seal is the cheapest, easiest, and quickest thing you can do. NAPA has the seal, just take it in and they'll match it up.

You can puncture the seal with a pointed punch and they take an angled pick and pry it out. Easy.

Just take some emery cloth to the shaft to clean it up before you slide the new seal on, oil up the shaft and seal too. A piece of PVC can be used to tap the seal in place.

Scott

[rwire125]

thanks Murph
I dnloaded the kohler manual last night and have started studing it in preperation on my next move, eather rering or just start tearing it down, and like ive said the 17 is running fine so this is a no hurrey project as long as i get it done BF fall as of right now my project is to get my all my sleeve hitch fabed up to get my disc on so i cant get some ground worked up in preperation to plant some trees at the end of the month, im just about done with my lift arm and ready to move on to the hitch