K-241 parts # questions (and a few others)

tinkerman · #1 05-05-2014, 10:44 PM

Ok, I'm new to the site and new to the IH "fever". My son and I bought one apiece, his is a 102, mine a 100. Mine is running. His is now in many pieces,but wer'e learning a lot (some the hard way). I would appreciate a part # for the clutch basket bearing. Also he's ordered a rebuild kit for the engine. 10 over. Got the piston out and its already. 30 over. So I figure a sleeve. Can you get em for. 10 over piston. Also one other question and ill leave y'all alone, will the sleeve hitch/ 3 point hitch (the arm that connects to the deck raise/ lower lever) will a 102 and 100 interchange? Held the 102 up to the 100 and it seemed to hit the rear end before pivoting correctly. Like I said I'm new guys so bear with me

cubby102 · #2 05-05-2014, 11:46 PM

Yes all the 3 point hardware should swap

tonka.scout800a · #3 05-06-2014, 06:09 AM

I have a 102 myself. Cool little tractor

I'm not sure which part # you're referring to for the clutch basket bearing??

Cub Cadet 941-3056 (replaces IH-391237-R91)
Bearing, Clutch Throwout Ball?

That's the only bearing I can think of in the clutch.

Check the resource page here on site and download the service manual, it helps a whole lot!!

R Bedell · #4 05-06-2014, 07:05 AM

Here is a very helpful tool for you. It is the Cub Cadet Parts Look up site. Just click on this link...... Parts Look Up

Click on Cub Cadet then type in your model. It may bring up several models, just scroll through the list until your model is found.

If you like Paper instead of digital, Binder Books (see above sponsors) have all the Cub Cadet paper manuals you could ever dream of.

FYI, when looking for CC model 100, look for 70-100 or 70/100. The 70 & 100 are the same tractor except for the engine.

tinkerman · #5 05-06-2014, 07:10 AM

Thanks for the replys, il check the manual, its the bearing that has the locking collar,that has to be removed before you can get the starter pulley off. Like I said its a learning experience, meaning we learner how NOT to remove the bearing and pulley. But we did get the crank out without damage, lol

J-Mech · #6 05-06-2014, 10:59 AM

You should never buy an engine kit for a motor before it has been disassembled and machined. Oh, the gasket kit is fine..... but they come with the kit.

That said, you should send it back. Take the motor to a machine shop that is familiar with Kohler motors. Yes, they can be sleeved, but you don't want to put a sleeve in, and immediately bore it .010" over. That's just silly. Put it back to standard. For the record, sleeving it will cost a little. Usually around $150. Good luck finding someone to sleeve it. Shops that will do it are getting hard to find.

Next question I have is the rod. You already bought a piston. Your going to need a rod. Did you get a new one?

If you didn't, don't order it yet! The crank will probably need machined..... But since it's been rebuilt, the crank is probably already turned to it's limit.......

tinkerman · #7 05-06-2014, 10:23 PM

As ii said we are learning some lessons the hard way, we purchased another cub 102,and the gentleman said he took the head off to clean the carbon and the piston said std,so that's a plus. I realize that we jumped the gun on the kit (and yes it does have rod) and I now realize that the machine work needs to be done first, so to get the right parts. Hopefully we'll get it tore down in the next few days and get it to the machine shop, with a little luck maybe a .10 over will work,we've got our fingers crossed