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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #1  
Old 08-24-2015, 02:50 PM
BullsLawDan BullsLawDan is offline
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Location: New York
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Default 3186 No Power Steering / Deck Lift

Hey all! New member here with a question...

I have a 3186 I bought used. It's mowed fine a few times (I have 2.5 acres of lawn) and I've used it to pull some small trees / big branches around the grass to move them out of the way.

Yesterday I was mowing and my power steering stopped working. When I checked the deck lift, the deck lift was also not working. I've noticed the deck will "creep" down in between mowings when it's sitting in the garage.

The mower still drives, but slowly.

This morning I saw a tiny stain on the garage floor that looked like maybe hydraulic fluid leaking... Is that something that would cause this? Is there likely another problem?

I'm thinking I check fluid level and top off to see if that fixes the problem. If it does, I will put the tractor up and try to find the leak, as well as changing the fluid and filter (no clue when that was last done by the prior owner).

Suggestions? Any possible big problems you want to scare me with?

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  #2  
Old 08-24-2015, 02:55 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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First, welcome to OCC.......

Quote:
I saw a tiny stain on the garage floor that looked like maybe hydraulic fluid leaking. Is that something that would cause this?
Very possible.
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  #3  
Old 08-24-2015, 06:46 PM
BullsLawDan BullsLawDan is offline
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Not sure that's the issue... Added some and it now appears to be over full. Possible the prior owner overfilled it to cause the issue?

I'm going to start from scratch on the fluid... New filter and all new fluid tonight. Seems like an easy enough job.
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  #4  
Old 08-29-2015, 01:28 PM
BullsLawDan BullsLawDan is offline
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New filter and fluid did not fix the problem. It barely wants to go in forward or reverse and whines when it does. I haven't moved it much, just checking whether it's working. Still now power steering or hydros.

Now I don't know...
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2015, 02:51 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Sounds like a charge pump problem to me. Here is a link where you can get a service manual. It shows two for the 3000 series so you'll have to figure out what one is for your tractor.

http://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Cub-...epair-Manuals/
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  #6  
Old 09-02-2015, 09:22 PM
BullsLawDan BullsLawDan is offline
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Ok so I was able to look under the fenders. The pump shaft going in is rotating smoothly and quickly but I hear some kind of clicking coming from underneath.
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  #7  
Old 09-03-2015, 04:58 AM
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BullsLawDan, welcome to OCC.

The creeping down of the deck when the machine sets overnight isn't uncommon and I wouldn't worry about that.

The other issue on the non-working hydraulics sounds like a gerotor issue. Unfortunately it is not an uncommon issue on the early 3000 series tractors and IIRC Hydro Gear improved the design of the replacement parts. It isn't that hard to replace the part either but you will have to remove the fender pan and clean the area very well before you tear into it. Here is some good reading for you.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/19-cub...sassembly.html

Please take some pictures for us....we like pictures. Good luck and keep us up to date on your repair.
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  #8  
Old 09-03-2015, 11:12 AM
BullsLawDan BullsLawDan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oak View Post
BullsLawDan, welcome to OCC.

The creeping down of the deck when the machine sets overnight isn't uncommon and I wouldn't worry about that.

The other issue on the non-working hydraulics sounds like a gerotor issue. Unfortunately it is not an uncommon issue on the early 3000 series tractors and IIRC Hydro Gear improved the design of the replacement parts. It isn't that hard to replace the part either but you will have to remove the fender pan and clean the area very well before you tear into it. Here is some good reading for you.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/19-cub...sassembly.html

Please take some pictures for us....we like pictures. Good luck and keep us up to date on your repair.
Sounds like a plan. I have no qualms about removing the fender pan. Working on tractors is new for me but I'm fairly mechanical (or as my colleague said I'm more handy by a country mile than most other lawyers). I downloaded a service manual and I see that removing the fenders is a lengthy process but nothing really technically demanding... Just basically removing a zillion things until it's free.

Looks like from that thread you linked if I get to the gerotor I will be able to see pretty easily if it's bad. When I remove it I will check the charge pump end of things for any damage as well.

Fortunately, when the problem started happening, I was 99% done with my lawn, and was up near the garage, so I've only driven it "bad" about 50 ft - hopeful that I didn't do any more damage.
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  #9  
Old 09-03-2015, 06:22 PM
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The fender pan is easy to remove.
--remove all three pedals on the right side
--slide the seat all the way forward and remove the 2 torx screws at the back of the adjuster rail
--slide the seat back and remove the other 2 torx screws at the front of the adjuster rail
--remove the rubber foot pad on each side of the running board and then the 9/16 bolt
--remove the 9/16 bolt that goes into the front of the running board from the firewall
--unplug the seat safety switch and the 2 tail lights
--remove the black dash screen
--the complete running board and fender pan will then come out as one assembly
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