Trunion repair

john hall · #1 03-28-2014, 09:14 PM

Last week I found that some lazy mechanic cut out the "window" on my 982 hydro trunion when changing the springs. After some searching on the forum it appears an acceptable repair is to weld an insert in it with it still in the hydro. Other than keeping it cool so as not to damage the seal, anyone had any problems resulting from this type of repair? Otherwise the hydro works great.

scgtguy · #2 03-28-2014, 09:39 PM

It works fine ... you can fab your own or Xtreme motorworks makes a weld on part for it ... I've used it and works well. here is link

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part.../CC-28-001.htm

Cheers, B.

Oak · #3 03-28-2014, 10:41 PM

I wrapped a rag around mine and silver soldered two pieces of key stock, one on the bottom and one on the top. The original seal is still okay.

J-Mech · #4 03-28-2014, 11:38 PM

I didn't take any pics, but did one today. Welded key stock on for the repair. Didn't wrap it with a rag or anything. Two zaps with a mig. Didn't even get the lever hot. You could touch it. (Except right at the weld obviously.)

Yosemite Sam · #5 03-28-2014, 11:41 PM

I've had to weld a number of them, never seen one like that before.

Normally I don't think you need the "kit" but you might consider it for that one.

If it works well, it's up to you if you fix it or not.

Here is some reading for you.

http://cubfaq.com/hydrolurch.html

http://cubfaq.com/trunionrepair.html

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4635

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=5495

http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

sawdustdad · #6 03-29-2014, 12:08 AM

I've repaired three by welding on the xtrememotorworks "square". In each case I've removed the trunion arm, but only because I had to go into the hydro for other reasons. I would not hesitate to weld it while still in the tractor, with a wet rag on the arm. Here's a few pics of the sequence of the repair. If you take it out, you can weld both sides, but it's not necessary. Be sure to replace the springs--that's important to assure proper speed control. The blue paper towel in these pics is only for picture clarity.

john hall · #7 03-29-2014, 08:19 AM

THANKS TO ALL!!!
I've learned a lot about this problem. First off it works fine to weld on a repair in the machine, obviously disassembled is easier but not required. Second off, I'm starting to think mine wore in two after seeing pics of what others have run into as opposed to a lazy mechanic that cut it to change the springs--- he may have just installed the missing springs, squeezed it closed with some channellocks and tied it up with wire for safety. I have also learned that if the corners of the window are worn from the pins in the springs, that can cause the pins to hang up and cause performance problems. We've always replaced springs and pins and added shim washers to get everything tight, but never knew to do something about the wear in the slot.

A special thanks to Yosemite Sam for providing all the links to some very detailed repair instructions. I did a search and didn't come up with any of those.

I doubt I will tackle this today, I need to get the front end and the engine reinstalled. That should clear up some floor space!

gkingbing · #8 11-17-2015, 09:20 AM

Wow, I am getting an education here!!! Great info. I was very relieved when I took the tractor for a ride up the hill by manually pushing the trunnion and it didnt slow down. I was afraid the transmission was toast.

Having a hard time getting the big c-clip off the plate that supports the trunnion plate. Off to NAPA for small tips for the snap ring tool.Also ordered new springs and ends for the trunnion. Thanks for sharing the great info.