tranny leak fix

squatch · #1 05-04-2009, 09:21 AM

1st drive on my super I caught a stick that came up and broke the driveshaft fan. So instead of lifting the engine for the umpteenth time I figured I would drop the transaxle instead and fix an oil leak at the same time. The axle is about the only thing I haven't removed yet. I did this over the weekend. The cork gasket between the pump and the axle was leaking. Pretty straight forward fix. Just dropped the axle and cleaned everything replaced the gasket. I pulled the driveshaft and replaced the fan and installed new stainless steel nyloc nuts on the rag joint couplings. I had replaced the rag joints when I replaced the engine but probably had the nuts a little too tight. This also gave me the excuse to change the tranny oil again. I replaced it a couple of months ago but don't think it has been changed in a while before I got the tractor. I consider that first change a flush.
I did have a little trouble getting the left pedal and the drive lever coordinated before this tranny service. The drive lever was easy but the tractor wanted to go reverse instead of neutral when left pedal pushed. Is this adjusted by sliding the bracket up or down on the trans case. I tried tightening and loosening the linkage to the pedal without much effect. Any advice on this adjustment is welcome. That is the only job left from this weekend that hasn't been done yet. Hopefully this evening. Then I can reassemble the new deck and get to mowing if this rain ever stops.
I almost forgot whiile I had everything apart I tapped the tunnel cover screw holes for 1/4" bolts as suggested in another thread. Sorry no pics on this job.

ajgross · #2 05-04-2009, 11:07 AM

The only thing I can think of that would cause you to have issues with the neutral position is maybe your trunion is froze. Check and make sure that both plate are moving freely. Sometimes the plates get froze together and will not work properly. I had this problem on my 982.

AJ

squatch · #3 05-05-2009, 09:02 AM

Thanks, I fixed all that trunion plate binding stuff a couple of months ago. This is an adjustment issue that I just haven't worked out yet. Setting neutral on the lever is no problem. It's the relationship between the dash lever adjustment and the foot pedal. When the pedal is pushed and the rear part of the rod drops into that little notch in the trunion plate assembly it wants to reverse ever so slightly. It seems that there is a sweet spot between the pedal rod in the notch and the dash level adjustment that I just haven't found yet. The whole plate assembly moves up and down about 1/2" where it mates to the tranny case. I suspect this is where I'll find my answer. I haven't gotten back to trying to adjust it again but hopefully before the week is out.
Has anyone here used the mystik trans oil from tractor supply in their hydro? Any problems with it? The container says it meets the Case/IH specs for both the old and new style hydro fluids.
This stuff
https://tractorsupplycompany.com/web...&Special=false

MBounds · #4 05-05-2009, 09:49 AM

Squatch & others: In an emergency or to "flush" the pump and transmission , I'd probably use it, b - u - t ... it will not absorb water/moisture like Hy-Tran. That is the one thing that makes HY-Tran the only fluid to use in your Cub Cadet. As you know Cub Cadet sells Hy-Tran as "Hydraulic-Transmission Fluid" as the name "Hy-Tran" is a registered trademark owned by Case/IH (now Case/New Holland). Hy-Tran is actually produced by Viscosity Oil Company and marketed by Case/IH and MTD/Cub Cadet... exactly the same fluid. They also make hydraulic fluids for several other major tractor brands, but it isn't the same stuff

In short..."Cheap Out" on hydraulic fluid is "penny wise and pound foolish"....just use Hy-Tran or the Cub cadet equivalent. Don't forget...only use the Cub Cadet Hydraulic Filter as well....

Myron B

klejeune · #5 05-05-2009, 01:02 PM

You can also get Hy-Tran at Case Industrial dealers. They will sometimes sell out of their bulk tanks even cheaper. Just take in your empty Hy-Tran gallon jugs to refill. Through the week this is the only place in my town that has Hy-Tran. On the weekend I can drive 30 miles to get from the CaseIH ag dealer.

squatch · #6 05-08-2009, 12:40 AM

Well I got the entire linkage assembly finally adjusted to perfection. There are 3 things that all have to be juggled. Rod for dash lever, rod for left brake pedal, linkage bracket on tranny housing(up or down). The pedal rod is not that big of a deal. Just set it so that the little T part at the rear falls in the notch of the linkage plate with the pedal pushed and allow a little slop for a heavy foot or frame flex. But just as I suspected the linkage bracket position was crucial. 1/16' up or down makes a HUGE difference to the adjustment of the dash lever rod. Move it a little adjust dash lever rod. Now move it back a bit adjust again and so on. I adjusted the plate with engine off but the rod for the dash lever I adjusted at idle with engine running and tunnel cover off. BE CAREFUL OF THOSE FINGERS AROUNG THAT SPINNING FAN! It took several tries and lots of engine starting and stopping. Now with pedal down and locked there is no Hydraulic whine at all and no pulling in either direction. The dash lever moves exactly the same amount in either direction from neutral before it starts to move in forward or reverse.
This also gave me an ecellent opportunity to observe the fan and driveshaft running. all was very smooth with no visible vibration.
Now the bad news! The tranny still leaks it appears I'm getting a little bit from several places besides the joint between pump and diff. The sealing of that location in my opinion is not the worlds greatest engineering design. The bolts are too far away from the joint and gasket itself. Oh well it's not real bad so for the moment I'll just watch it and check the hydro fluid level often till I get around to pulling tranny again.

Matt G. · #7 05-08-2009, 10:23 AM

It's not so much the design of the trans, but the cork gasket that causes issues. Cork isn't the greatest gasket material. Some people have made neoprene gaskets to use in place of the cork ones. I've replaced quite a few of those gaskets, and I've never had a new cork one leak. It's very important to get both gasket surfaces clean and torque the bolts as per the manual.