Cub Cadet Yellow

mattop · #1 02-08-2016, 10:01 AM

I bought some CaseIH Iron Gard Cub Cadet Yellow from Messick's in E-town to paint some parts on my 1650. I am assuming that this is the proper pre-1981 yellow that I need.

Regardless, I spent a lot of time priming and painting my parts. I decided to follow the instruction on the can that said if you cure them for 1 hour at 650 degrees, the paint will withstand 1500 degrees. Now I don't need that sort of heat protection, but I figured it would be helpful in having a very durable finish.

After some time in the heat, the parts have turned a weird brownish-bronze. It's a REALLY durable finish, but it's not the color I was going for. I guess I'm repainting now.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2E...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B2E...ew?usp=sharing

Sam Mac · #2 02-08-2016, 10:14 AM

Looks like it's well done or you used Bolens paint.

R Bedell · #3 02-08-2016, 10:31 AM

To "dry" paint means that the moisture needs to be removed. Last I knew, water boiled at 212°F. So by baking them at 225°F would seem to me more appropriate temperature.

mattop · #4 02-08-2016, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by R Bedell

To "dry" paint means that the moisture needs to be removed. Last I knew, water boiled at 212°F. So by baking them at 225°F would seem to me more appropriate temperature.

Good point. The paint was "dry", but perhaps not dry enough. I'm going to do it at a lower temp for less time next time.

SGragg · #5 02-08-2016, 11:14 AM

Something's not right. My oven's highest temp setting is 550 degrees. Surely the can is misprinted. Do a quick internet search on powder coating temperatures to get an idea how warm the oven is supposed to be.

I would think a whole lot lower, like the 200-300 degree range. Sorry to see you'll be doing these parts over again.

olds45512 · #6 02-08-2016, 11:19 AM

Paint drys from a chemical reaction and heat will speed up the process but to much heat will burn the paint, at work when I paint cars and bake them the most I go is 160° for 40 minutes and that's only if I'm in a hurry. The key to baking paint is to not allow to much flash time before heating it up, if it sits to long it will film over and heating it up after that is a gamble and may lead to peeling and blisters in the paint. I wait 1 minute after im done spraying and then turn the heat up,unless you have a good reason I'd just paint it and let it air dry.

mattop · #7 02-08-2016, 11:24 AM

Olds45512,

Thanks for the advice. My goal was too just help it cure and harden up a little fast before I put the parts back on the tractor. I've been spraying my coats in the barn and bringing them into my basement to dry before the next coat.

I'm just going to paint over this brownishness because nothing bubble or peeled. It's actually very hard! How long should I wait between coats? 24 hours?

olds45512 · #8 02-08-2016, 11:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mattop

Olds45512,

I'm just going to paint over this brownishness because nothing bubble or peeled. It's actually very hard! How long should I wait between coats? 24 hours?

Make sure you give the parts a good stuff before painting them again, as dry as they are now the new paint won't stick to the old paint without some scratch. Figuring the time between coats depends on alot of variables like temp, air flow and film build. My best advice is to recoat once the paint is hand slick, you should be able to run your finger lightly across the paint without smearing it. Metal temp is a big deal when it comes to painting, cold metal will retard the drying process more than cold air. If your painting in the cold it might be a good idea to heat the parts up to 80 or 90° which will make the first coat dry quickly so you can get the second coat on and move the parts inside before they cool to much.