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#1
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Redneck valve removal
So I understand not everybody has all the specialty tools required to work on these cubs so I thought I'd share a technique I've used several times to remove valves from a Kohler single cylinder. I start by turning the engine until the valve I want to remove is at its highest point, I then take two paint stick and put them under the spring and roll the motor until the lifter is down as far as it will go. Now the full weight of the spring is being held by the paint sticks and you can hit the top of the valve with your hand and it will go down and the keepers will fall out, once the keepers are off you can pull the valve and do whatever work you need to do. For reassembly i use a small flat head screwdriver with the tip coated in grease so the keeper will stick to it, I also put some grease on the keeper so it sticks to the valve. The most important part is to make sure the keepers are properly in the notch on the valve stem, once your satisfied everything is good simply turn the engine until the lifter touches the valve and then pull the sticks out. And before somebody (probably j mech ) points out that I could rent a valve tool from a parts store I will go ahead and say that I already know that and I don't really feel like driving there to get it.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#2
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Like the ole saying........."there is more than one way to skin the cat"....
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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Looks good to me.
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#4
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Yep, and the easiest way isn't always the most fun!
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Travis 1993 Cub Cadet 2064 1988 Cub Cadet 2072 1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20 1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301 1961 IH Cub Cadet O 1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122 JD 2155 w/ 175 loader |
#5
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Excellent! I'll remember that next time. But....... ummmmmmmm.......... say you pull the valve springs and paint sticks out for complete rebuild for example.....how do ya get'em back in?
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#6
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For that you need the tool, this only works if your pulling the valves and putting them right back in.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#7
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I bought one of these a while back, well worth the $25. Used it on two Kohler engines and one Briggs so far.
http://www.amazon.com/Valve-Spring-C...0258101&sr=8-1 |
#8
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That is good....me personally, i started with the two screwdriver method, but have since found that a set of long reach (not cheapos) needle nose pliers used on their side work well also....
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#9
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I'm not going to harp on you for what your doing... I'v made many, many tools. Usually because I needed it NOW and couldn't get my hands on what I needed for several days. Usually, I ordered what I needed though unless I didn't think I would ever need one again.
I guess the only thing I have to say is they only cost about $20, why not just buy one? I suggest this one. Lisle tools are good "cheap" tools. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-23300-En.../dp/B000P0VTG4 |
#10
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Quote:
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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