Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Everyone, we have 2 new Sponsors!
Machtech Direct and P&K Cub Cadet (See Links above)


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Rear Engine Rider & ZTR (RER)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 04-30-2016, 09:53 AM
ironman's Avatar
ironman ironman is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,289
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redspine View Post
Greetings All, first post!

I need some help so I've come to the gurus. I have a 2015 cc 30 mini riding mower. The wife hit a rock with it and she said it stopped dead. The blade bent but it spins freely and I'll replace it once I fix the bigger problem. I have already checked the camshaft/woodruff key and it is fine. All the shafts spin freely. The 15a fuse is not blown. All the belts are good. When I turn the key there is a very faint single 'click' sound. What do I check next? I have an illustrated parts manual and I can turn a wrench (usually in the right direction) but I'm out of ideas. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
I do not own one of these but I have worked on a couple of other brands. I'll try to help you but need some more details....
I assume that your problem is that the engine is not cranking, correct??

1. When you say you turn the key you get "a very faint single click".
Does that mean only once, or every time you turn the key, and "faint"
is a vague description. Is it the key switch clicking or the solenoid
operating??

2. You say "I have already checked the camshaft/woodruff key".
What/where is this "camsaft/woodruff key"?? There is a key on the
engine, under the flywheel, but it's not on the camshaft. So what do
you mean??

3. You say "all the shafts spin freely".
That is tough to tell with everything hooked up, but since the blade is
bent and you are going to replace it why not take it off now to eliminate
binding until this is fixed.

Are you positive the battery is charged?
Are all the safety switch conditions being met, brake set, deck not engaged, operator on seat, reverse lockout, etc?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-30-2016, 01:46 PM
Redspine Redspine is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Default

I tried it with the PTO off and on. Didn't crank, but thanks for the idea.

Bypassing the starter; that sounds a bit over my pay grade. I'll need to research how to do that.

The faint click is only one time per key turn. It sounds like it is coming from the starter. Would that mean that the solenoid is good?

Battery shows 12.63v.

I'll try to include a pic of the woodruff key. It is located on top of the engine. The pic has the flywheel removed.

I took the deck and blade off and spun the blade shaft and engine crankshaft and I didn't feel any binding.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg woodruff.jpg (14.5 KB, 54 views)
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-30-2016, 04:20 PM
Redspine Redspine is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Default

FIXED IT! kinda.......First, thank you all for your time and input. I know where to come in the future when things go wrong.

So I went out and tested the solenoid and it was good. In my research I keep hearing about 'safety switcheS' - plural. I only knew about the one under the seat. I followed some wires and found a safety switch on top of the mowing deck. I don't know what it is called but it presses against the deck discharge cover. This is a large plastic shield that diverts cut grass back down to the ground and covers the discharge hole on the deck (blade safety switch?). Apparently, when she hit the rock, the rock flew and hit this piece of plastic and bent it just enough to active this safety switch. I removed the shield, pressed in the plunger, reattached the shield and went and mowed a couple strips. I guess I need to go on an expedition to find all of these for future reference. This was definitely a learning experience. The pride gets a little bruised when a 5-days tear-down swear fest could have been solved in 20 seconds with the right knowledge. Thanks again!
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-30-2016, 07:51 PM
ironman's Avatar
ironman ironman is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,289
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Redspine View Post
FIXED IT! kinda.......First, thank you all for your time and input. I know where to come in the future when things go wrong.

So I went out and tested the solenoid and it was good. In my research I keep hearing about 'safety switcheS' - plural. I only knew about the one under the seat. I followed some wires and found a safety switch on top of the mowing deck. I don't know what it is called but it presses against the deck discharge cover. This is a large plastic shield that diverts cut grass back down to the ground and covers the discharge hole on the deck (blade safety switch?). Apparently, when she hit the rock, the rock flew and hit this piece of plastic and bent it just enough to active this safety switch. I removed the shield, pressed in the plunger, reattached the shield and went and mowed a couple strips. I guess I need to go on an expedition to find all of these for future reference. This was definitely a learning experience. The pride gets a little bruised when a 5-days tear-down swear fest could have been solved in 20 seconds with the right knowledge. Thanks again!
Just a couple FYI's for the future.....

1. Just because the solenoid clicks doesn't mean it is good. It means that your circuitry to activate it is probably good. However, the contacts inside the solenoid can bad and even though it is operating, it may not be getting 12 volts from the battery to the starter. You would need a test lamp or a meter to know for sure.

2. You removed the flywheel and checked the key on the CRANKshaft, not the CAMshaft. Those keys do get sheared when you hit something and the engine is suddenly stopped, the momentum of the heavy flywheel keeps going and cut the key. This is more likely to happen with a lawn mower where the blade is attached directly to the crankshaft. A belt driven blade not so often because the belt stretches and absorbs the shock. HOWEVER..... all that being said, if the key on yours would have been sheared, it does NOT prevent the engine from cranking. It would just not start, or may start but run like crap because the key determines proper timing for your ignition. By the way, that coil of copper wire under your flywheel is the alternator for charging your battery.

Hope this helps and glad you found problem.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 05-01-2016, 07:43 PM
Redspine Redspine is offline
New Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 7
Default

Great, thanks for the info. Learning something new everyday.

"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it."
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 05-01-2016, 09:56 PM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is online now
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,694
Default

And the only "stupid" questions are the ones that are not asked!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.