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#51
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Are you going to drill the pump shaft for the spirol pin?
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#52
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Quote:
![]() "Puzzled", yeah, me too. But it worked all these years just like you see it Jay... Well I'm thinking it would be a good idea. Don't know how hard the shaft is, never drilled one before.
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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#53
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Quote:
![]() Tom |
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#54
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Take the edge of a file and see if it makes a notch or just goes "zing" over the splines. If it makes a notch, you can drill it. If it just dances over it, it would require using carbide drill bits which are NOT recommended in a hand drill.
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#55
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You can get one of these to get you thru the case hardening:
I don't know about the size I just listed a sample https://m.mscdirect.com/mobileweb/pr...tedParts=false
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
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#56
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The spirol pin is 1/8". Todd it looks to me like the shaft is drilled for a bolt. Or is that a shadow? I'm wondering if a PO swapped to a cyclops pump.
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Travis 1993 Cub Cadet 2064 1988 Cub Cadet 2072 1980 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20 1966 IH Cub Cadet 102 w/K301 1961 IH Cub Cadet O 1967 IH Cub Cadet 102 & 122 JD 2155 w/ 175 loader |
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#57
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I also thought that but everybody seemed confident that it was not so I didn't say anything.
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
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#58
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I just looked at that, it sure is drilled and tapped. Put a CV drive line in it and be happy.
![]() Edit: Todd check and see if the shaft is tapped for a 1/4-20 bolt.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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#59
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Well checked out the input shaft, and yes it is threaded. Also tried Jeff's test, and yeah, "zing". But I tried a drill, and it didn't even scratch the shaft.
I understand, you all are trying to help, and thanks, but the CV driveshaft assembly is out, already bought a new fan, flex disc's, and drive flange assy, got near $80 invested. I'm going to use what I have. Figured this thing worked fine all these years as it was. But what I did was run a tap in the two holes in the coupling assy. and ground two small notches in the input shaft. Using two set screws to make sure it can't slide. Upon final assembly thread-lock them in, and it "should" be fine. It worked with nothing holding it together, so I ain't scared. Got back with Ray's today, and he has the lines. Now I own the lines, so one less thing on the list...
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Make the best of each day , Todd ![]() Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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#60
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OK it's your tractor but I would stick a shaft from an 1882 in it if it was my tractor considering everything else you have done to it.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
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