Extending Brake Pad Life - 1641

[J-Mech]

McMaster Carr sells brake lining material. Cheap, easy to get. You can reline them. There's even a thread in the tech section showing how to do it.

[DieselDoctor]

Excellent fix Gary. Glad you were able to understand the suggestions and look at the shift linkage to the hydro as a possible cause in addition to "loose shoes".
These machines are all showing some wear on the moving parts now and a general going over is a good idea, tightening, adjusting, etc.. Continue to join in the discussions and maybe post a few pics!

[Terry C]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I agree with you. Kind of.....lol.
The brakes dragging against the hydro when stopping won't damage the pump. BUT during starting, if the hydro isn't centering, it could be a safety issue, and if there is a load present on the pump during starting, before fluid pressure has built back, that could damage the hydro..... could. But it would take a while.

If you push on the pedal shouldn’t the lever on th dash be back to neutral before the brakes engage? I don’t know. I never use brakes on a hydro. I guarantee my brake linings will last a lifetime cause I don’t use them.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Terry C

If you push on the pedal shouldn’t the lever on th dash be back to neutral before the brakes engage? I don’t know. I never use brakes on a hydro. I guarantee my brake linings will last a lifetime cause I don’t use them.

Meh..... it's close to the same time. All the linkage is tied together. It starts moving the brake lever as soon as you press on the pedal. It starts moving the dash lever when the rod contacts the cam plate. They work at about the same time. Personally I'd rather they had put a disconnect clutch and integrated brake for the pedal. That way, it kills the hydro altogether and sets the brake. Plus, aids starting. I've thought about converting mine.... but I'm too lazy, lol. Plus, I seldom use the brake pedal. I use it a lot more blowing snow because I run out of hands to operate with.

[flatpickerray]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

I just cut the brake rods shorter.

That's what I did on my 1641, cut a half inch off each rod then adjusted per the manual.

[oly51]

Originally Posted by Terry C

If you push on the pedal shouldn’t the lever on th dash be back to neutral before the brakes engage? I don’t know. I never use brakes on a hydro. I guarantee my brake linings will last a lifetime cause I don’t use them.

One more thing that added to my problem was the parking brake latch was too loose and it locked the pedal when ever I hit the brakes. The tractor kept creeping and the shift lever was locked. Tightened it and readjusted everything and it now works as it should.

Thanks for all the tips!

[jbrewer]

Nice work Gary

The pad material is available from Mc Master, I believe and you can re-line the pads fairly affordably when you finally need them.

Nice to fix up old stuff isn't it?

John

[garydee]

...been following the discussion regarding brake pads on the 1641...
I restored my Dad’s 1641 last year and found that the yokes on each side were screwed on as far as they could go, with no further adjustment possible.

I discovered that the calipers were installed backwards, with the little arm on each side facing towards the front of the tractor instead of towards the rear.

After installing the calipers correctly, arms towards the rear, the yokes were able to be adjusted properly to achieve the right length for the rod and spring connection. I was then able to adjust the pads to be applied the appropriate amount when hydro was brought to the neutral position with the brake pedal.