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#11
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#12
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Pics of the bearing races attached.
Only 1 has discoloration. Others have small grooving. I presume the likely reason the races are spinning is b/c not enough lube in the housing, excess heat is generated, bearings/races spin; correct? Bearing supplier on eBay (who I think is a member here...?) sells his bearings with races. Time to break out the shop press. Looks like a Craftsman 32MM socket fits the housing just on the edge of too snug to press the races in. Here are a couple extra pics of one of the spindle assemblies while I was in disassemble mode.
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Model 2186-48 (13B-288M100) |
#13
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I would think the race didn't fit tight if it's spinning. The amount of heat it would take to get the bearing to stick to the race and make it spin would probably be enough to melt the bearing.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#14
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Bearings:
Timiken part #'s: LM11949 (Bearing) LM11910 (Race) ----- AKA "Timiken Set 2" eBay - $5 each - $30 total Oil seals: CC P/N: 921-3018A / 721-3018A eBay - 6 for $20 Mine seem to be in good shape. I got them out with very little warping/indentation to the soft plastic/rubber "sealing" section that sits over the rollers. Is this an "always always always replace part", or re-use is OK if in good shape? Sleeve Retainer: I don't own this compound yet. Loctite 640, Permatex 64000, or some other - Which would you recommend? Looks like I can make this happen for at most $60. Not too bad. Curious to know if my spindles are worse off than most of this age class?
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Model 2186-48 (13B-288M100) |
#15
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Replace the bearings and races. They show obvious signs of wear. Always replace seals after removal. They distort when installed, and removed.
Don't get so technical about the retaining compound. Just stop by your local auto parts store and grab a small tube. Red, or something marked as a retaining compound. It's not that big of a deal. I'd use whatever I had handy. Aluminium spindle housings don't seem to hold races well. Probably not a tight fit to begin with and that's why the race is loose. Cheap stuff. I don't know that they are any better or worse than any other spindles in that age. MTD wants you to spend big bucks on a whole new spindle as an assembly. Put yours together for $60 and be happy. Edit: I guess I should add, the newer aluminum housing don't seem to hold bearings well. The older ones did seem to hold better. Probably better machined. |
#16
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Parts ordered. Shipping puts them to me Mon/Tues.
Asked about retainer compound b/c I had never heard of Kroil before. Always been a PB guy, but bought some Kroil to try it out. Reviews are top notch for Kroil. I'm going to centerpunch the housing and use the retainer compound. Thanks for the replies. Always good to learn from others. I appreciate it.
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Model 2186-48 (13B-288M100) |
#17
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Anyone have NAPA part numbers handy for seals, bearings and races? Also, I've been reading some posts stating one should install the seals backwards? I'd be worried about getting grease on the belt or damaging the seal on the bottom.
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