2072 electrical issues

[john hall]

OK, got some sort of mischief going on with the electricals on my 2072. No, I haven't began to diagnose anything, just checking for ideas and opinions ahead of time. This is the mower my dad uses, so I don't run it other than getting it out of the shed and fueling up. About a month ago I hit the switch and NOTHING. No clicks, grunts, oil light, headlights--nothing. Cycled the key switch a few times and finally current flowed (plenty of juice from the battery given the speed at which it whipped the engine over). I figured key switch had issues and would deal with it later. Couple weeks later, I went to put it under the shed (it was dark) and the lights kept cutting in and out---again I figure key switch issues. In the meantime the mower deck has started cutting off at random times, but generally comes right back on (except the last time). This machine has a sensitive seat switch so I am wondering if that is it, or if the clutch is out of adjustment/failing. My plan is to check the seat switch just to see if it is (mechanically) sound, then check air gap. My concern is could the key switch have caused all 3 of these problems. As best as I can remember the key switch was replaced about 8 years ago, can't tell you about the age of the PTO or the seat switch.

[CubDieselFan]

I had a 1810 doing what you are describing. There was corrosion in the connector that goes to the ignition switch.

[flatpickerray]

Just had a similar problem with my 1872, turned out to be the fuse. Looking at the fuse, it looked good, tested with meter it was bad. It worked sometimes and sometimes not. New fuse fixed it.

[J-Mech]

Key switch can cause all this issues. Check the harness connector at the switch for corrosion too.

[john hall]

Its the switch/wire at the switch. Grabbing the connector you can make it lose current flowing thru. I tried individual wires but didn't seem to cause anything to lose current. I'm pretty certain its the switch, maybe where the terminals are riveted on. I'll take the switch over to the shop and see if I can make it lose connection--I've soldered these type joints before with success. For some reason the black wire in the harness has black tape on it--going to see why. All connections are clean, no corrosion. Will try to resolve it tomorrow night--or at least point more positively at the switch so I can get one on order.

Thanks for the input fellows.

[john hall]

Well, it was NOT the wiring at the switch. Now the supply wire had been hot and "compromised", but that was not the problem. I cut out the bad and put in a new connector (thanks to the archives I figured out what those connections are and ordered some). Hooked it all up and still had intermittent current flow. Started checking with volt meter and sometimes the voltage seemed low, sometimes seemed to fluctuate, all depending on where I checked it. Now bear in mind that I have the harness extended out the right side of the dash, not laying in its "run position". Finally decided it had to be the switch, I mean what else could it be? I had checked the fuse and cleaned it a dozen times. Surely it had to be the switch. Ordered a new switch and put it in. Worked great, tried it 10 times. Put the switch in the dash, no juice. I wiggled every wire for what seemed to be 20 minutes. No individual wire to the switch seemed to be the problem. Decided it must be a wire burnt up inside the harness so I started bending wires further back. There it was, a tiny blue spark on the back of the amp gauge. I could merely lay my finger on it and get contact. Pulled the connector of, they just slip over the threads. Cleaned with steel wool, crimped it a little tighter and presto, problem solved.
I HATE ELECTRICAL TROUBLES.

[J-Mech]

That's why I suggest testing to find the issue before replacing parts. Although.... it does sound like the ignition harness and switch needed some attention, so there was no waste.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

That's why I suggest testing to find the issue before replacing parts. Although.... it does sound like the ignition harness and switch needed some attention, so there was no waste.

Makes me a little ticked though I kept checking and got my mind "hung up" on a bad switch. I'm 99% positive the old switch is fine, but the new one stays. On my round-tuit list is now to put ring terminals on those amp gauge wires. Hopefully I won't forget how important the amp gauge is. Friend of mine ran into that on a tractor that wouldn't crank/run once before. Drove him crazy for a little while. Guess I'll consider the price of the switch as tuition for a lesson learned.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by john hall

On my round-tuit list is now to put ring terminals on those amp gauge wires.

Yeah, those press on connectors on the ammeter are for the birds. I'd switch them too.