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  #11  
Old 10-12-2010, 10:03 AM
mko1024 mko1024 is offline
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I started disassembly last night. It's a mess but thankfully I haven't found any other issues. I will check out the breather, the starter and pull the heads while I have it apart. Thanks to all for the pointers.
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  #12  
Old 10-12-2010, 09:18 PM
BCDSFCRET BCDSFCRET is offline
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Yes you can stack two seals of the pto end of the crank shaft. I have done this on several of my cubs.
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  #13  
Old 10-13-2010, 12:55 AM
mko1024 mko1024 is offline
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I have another rookie question. I took apart the breather and what I found doesn't seem to match up with the drawings in the parts and service manuals. The "valve" is a thin metal flap instead of the umbrella valve I find in the parts manual. I assume this is an original part but I don't know if it may have been replaced in the past.

The flap is free to move but is pretty stiff. Anyone seen this before? Other than cleaning it up and replacing the gasket should I be replacing this valve?
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  #14  
Old 10-13-2010, 08:55 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCDSFCRET View Post
Yes you can stack two seals of the pto end of the crank shaft. I have done this on several of my cubs.
When you purchase the seal, make sure it is the correct one.
IIRR the I series crank is just a bit smaller in dia.@ the flywheel.
It is hard to tell the difference without looking closely. I found 2 wrong seals installed on a engine, and of course it still leaked Ha,LOL!
--make sure, then you don't have to do it again
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  #15  
Old 10-13-2010, 03:48 PM
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aagitch aagitch is offline
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George, I never knew the (flywheel side) seal was different between the engines. Good info. Different part number and price.
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  #16  
Old 10-14-2010, 02:31 PM
BCDSFCRET BCDSFCRET is offline
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You can stack 2 seals on the pto end of the crank shaft. you will just have to push one in then install the 2nd one. I add a little extra grease on the 2nd seal.
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  #17  
Old 11-06-2010, 03:31 PM
mko1024 mko1024 is offline
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I thought I should follow up and I have a new question.

The front seal was completely blown out similar to the picture that metalrain posted of his. I've attached a picture. I cleaned and de-greased everything and replaced that seal with two as was suggested earlier in this thread. I also pulled the heads and removed all the carbon. The pistons and valves looked to be in good shape. And I also pulled apart the starter following Matt's guide. One of the brush springs was broken so I went ahead and replaced the brushes and springs.

I put it all back together and it started right up! After re-torquing the heads I ran it for several hours mowing the yard. Here is South Florida that's a year round task.

That leads to my follow-up question. I went to start it again and now it's not turning over. I pulled the shroud that covers the starter. The starter itself is turning over strong. The bendix pinion is flying out on the shaft and engaging the flywheel but it isn't turning over. The starter is spinning freely inside the back of the pinion.

It was working fine before I took it apart and cleaned it. Any thoughts on what I did to cause this?
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  #18  
Old 11-06-2010, 08:59 PM
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Is it possible you didn't put it back together correctly?
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2010, 02:53 PM
mko1024 mko1024 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aagitch View Post
Is it possible you didn't put it back together correctly?
Why didn't I think of that!... No, I'm pretty sure I put it together correctly. There aren't that many parts.

Let me ask a more direct question then. Are the front and back halves of the drive pinion supposed to spin freely in both directions with respect to each other? I am referring to the two halves of the part that I drew arrows to in the attached picture.

So once the starter turns and it moves forward on the shaft to engage the flywheel is it friction alone between these two halves of the drive pinion that causes the back half to turn the front half and therefore the flywheel?

This is the only starter that I have ever taken apart. I don't have a fleet of tractors to refer to for examples of how this is supposed to work.

I took it back apart and cleaned the pinion again in carb cleaner this time to remove any trace of dirt/grease/whatever that was inside that part. I lubed it with a dry graphite lube and let is sit overnight so the solvent in the lube would evaporate. This morning it's working again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kktqvYnAHpw
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