1811 starter replacement

[john hall]

I posted in the Cadet section instead of the engine section because I can't remember if you can access/remove the starter on a M18 with the engine installed in the mower. Got to check battery voltage and power to the starter, just wanting to know how far I can tear into it to replace the starter if needed. Anybody ever swapped with one on a KT17? (no I haven't looked to see if the part number is the same). Just arming myself with info and options before I grab some wrenches.

[R Bedell]

You can change the starter while in place....IF......you have the right tools, the patience of God, and a few choice words.

Next best would be undo the mounting bolts on the Starter Side of the Mounting Plate and slightly raise the engine up from the Frame.

The easiest is to pull the motor and have full and easy access.

[john hall]

Thanks Roland. Dad had a moment to try it today and the darn thing is working again! Yesterday it just spun, Bendix were not kicking in. I just pulled it out of the shop on Fri. after giving it a "springtime servicing". Maybe it will "stay working" Until I can get it in the shop and check it over, beginning at the battery.

[sorner]

It's not terrible, I did it in my 1912 (it has a Kohler M18) without lifting the engine. It takes patience.

[ol'George]

It takes less work, but takes longer in frame.
Now that I'm older, it is easier to just remove the engine.
Also you get to clean the shit out of the fins, especially around the mag coil that kills it, and you are able to clean around the flywheel stator and inspect to see the condition of the crank seal also.
If the seal is leaking, after you remove the flywheel to replace, you can also see if the magnets are still glued in the flywheel or have come loose, causing catastrophic
damage to the stator and possibly udder stuff
@ the age of these units, is is good PM to prevent unwanted break downs!
oh, to answer your question, kt 17, II, and magnums use the same starter.
I've never removed the tins, that weren't chocked full of shit and impeded air flow on those opposed twins.
Then there is the ability to inspect, repair if necessary, the drive shaft that is prolly needing attention.
Pay me now or pay me more later, as it goes.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by ol'George

It takes less work, but takes longer in frame.
Now that I'm older, it is easier to just remove the engine.
Also you get to clean the shit out of the fins, especially around the mag coil that kills it, and you are able to clean around the flywheel stator and inspect to see the condition of the crank seal also.
If the seal is leaking, after you remove the flywheel to replace, you can also see if the magnets are still glued in the flywheel or have come loose, causing catastrophic
damage to the stator and possibly udder stuff
@ the age of these units, is is good PM to prevent unwanted break downs!
oh, to answer your question, kt 17, II, and magnums use the same starter.
I've never removed the tins, that weren't chocked full of shit and impeded air flow on those opposed twins.
Then there is the ability to inspect, repair if necessary, the drive shaft that is prolly needing attention.
Pay me now or pay me more later, as it goes.

Hopefully all is clean and no other work is needed--this is the engine I put pistons in/valve job/coil/fuel pump/seals/paint about 2 years ago. Pretty sure I put a new key switch in and the battery cables are OK as I had the rear end out of this one as well. But, anything can go wrong.

I have a couple KT's that are ventilated rather well, maybe one has a donor starter.

[ol'George]

If it has only been together a couple of years it will prolly be ok
hopefully you pick a good starter, if not, you get more practice.

BTBT an it weren't purdy Ha,LOL