Fried my 149 Hydrostatic

[R Bedell]

Here is the 1x8/9 "start" circuit, in sequential order and with correct color coded wire. Starting at the battery, work your way along the circuit and test wire and device.

Bear in mind, at the Ignition Switch, B & S has to be made, the PTO has to be "off" position, and the Brake Pedal must be depressed.

[-Matt]

Thanks so much, Roland.

I understand closing the circuit with the PTO in the off position and the break engaged. Regarding the ignition switch, I'm not sure what is meant by "B & S has to be made". Is this turning the key to the first position?

Also, I had tried following the directions from your initial post to go to "the Technical Library Section and on Page 5, download the 1x8/9 Wiring Diagram", but was not able to find the post in the section Only Cub Cadets > Resources > Technical Library - Tractors. Was I perhaps in the wrong neighborhood (or is there a URL I could follow to find the schematic you embedded in your message)? I assume there will be other useful information in this area of the site.

Thanks again for your help with this!

[Alvy]

B and S have to be made means put the key switch in the start position thus linking the B or battery terminal to the S or start terminal inside the key switch.

[R Bedell]

Go to the Technical Library Section and on Page 5,

As I said before, you need to go to page "#5". It is there. Been there for 12+ yrs.

[QUOTE]the key switch in the start position thus linking the B or battery terminal to the S or start terminal inside the key switch. /QUOTE]

B = Battery Terminal, S = Start Terminal. BTW, "I" = Ignition Terminal on that Switch

[-Matt]

Thanks again for the guidance, Roland (and, yes, the diagram was just where you'd said I'd find it).

Once I saw the starting circuit, I went back to the full diagram, and it hit me-- it was the Amp Gauge! (I mean, maybe it wasn't-- what do I know? But having checked what I'd checked, and thinking about how I'd fried it in the first place, I suppose I had a strong hunch).

Anyway, I jumped the terminals on the gauge, reconnected the battery, turned the key, and heard the delightful sound of that engine starting again. New gauge is on its way.

So glad I found you folks and this site. Thanks again for the help!

[AndrewNoyes]

Congrats, Matt! With the help of great people like Roland and many others here, you can fix anything!
Regards,
Andy

[-Matt]

Originally Posted by AndrewNoyes

Congrats, Matt! With the help of great people like Roland and many others here, you can fix anything!
Regards,
Andy

I could not agree more. Thanks for the kind and encouraging message, Andy.

[mrfred54]

Step 1 make sure battery connections are good and ground cable is good to frame. 2 lock down clutch pedal..hook jumper cable from positive battery post to A post on starter generator, not the F post!!! If it rolls over the starter generator is good. If not recheck connections and try again. If still no roll over, get starter gen. Rebuilt. If it rolls over step 3. Unplug safety switches and jump the harness terminals to get her and try rolling over with key switch. If it rolls over then hook one safety switch at a time to see if it won't roll over, if this is the case then you found your problem. 4 if nothing yet jump wire across the large terminals on the solenoid. Good luck

[-Matt]

Thanks for the help, all. Hooked up the new DC gauge, and all is well on the electric front.