582 Repower with CH18

[muddysamurai]

Long time lurker first time poster. Gotten a lot of good info from the site to keep my "Saved from the scrap pile, laying on its side that just needed a new battery and fresh fluids" 1983 CC 582 going for the past 10 years.

So my Briggs IC in my CCC 582 started knocking pretty good, I knew this was coming so I had already found a Kohler Command 18 from another Cub to swap in a couple years ago. Using several threads on here I gathered up my needed parts.
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This had been sitting for a few years in my basement, took it outside and hooked up a fuel supply and used a jumpstart box to get it running. It fired up with less than 5 seconds of cranking! and sounds pretty good. I pulled off all the shrouding and degreased it and cleaned it up.


Used 1/2"x 1 1/2" bar stock for the spacers instead of the round ones that are $7-8 a piece from CC!
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Spacer/Adapter and bolts for Kohler, Fiber/Kevlar 6 pin clutch from Midwest Super Cub.
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Clutch driver and pins and driveshaft pins from Lakota Racing.
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And a used muffler from IHCCW. I have not been able to locate the ducting/heatshield for a 1963, 1864, 2084 or 2284 so if somebody know of one let me know. I also had to replace the PTO Clutch. The clutch that was on the engine and the same one that I replaced it with wouldn't fit with the muffler that I got with the clutch brake in the 12 o'clock position. So I rotated the clutch assembly and moved the anti-rotate pin to the 6 o'clock so it would clear the muffler.
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I got the engine positioned so the clutch was in the correct position and re-drilled the engine plate. My original plan was to attach the clutch driver directly to the engine adapter/spacer, and use a new lengthened driveshaft with a spacer between the throw-out bearing and teaser spring cup. I had found some 5/8" ID steel spacers and reamed them out to .630" to easily slide on the driveshaft.
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So when I began assembling the the spacer and clutch driver to the engine I realized the the clutch driver was going to be pretty flush with the engine blower shield. It looked nice but I didn't like how little space was left for it to pull air in.
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So time is of the essence, because the grass is still growing, and to get custom machined spacer was going to take a month, I needed to get something to work quickly. I started to mess around with the outer ring spacers on the drive shaft that came with the engine for the flex joints that are at the ends. I realize that the bolt pattern is the same as the clutch driver pattern, so if I stacked both of them between the adapter and the clutch driver it provided plenty of space for air to get into the blower and the driveshaft distance was within 1/4" of stock so I was able to use the old one.
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I know that the stacked spacers is not ideal and I will have to check the run-out of the clutch driver as I tighten everything down as it doesn't have socket to center into. I plan on measuring the total length and still getting one custom machined.

I still have to pull things back apart and properly torque everything down, get proper nuts and bolts and other misc. little pieces, put the engine shrouds back on and adapt the wiring to the new engine, so hopefully just a few more nights until its ready to run!

[R Bedell]

Here is our attachment guideline..... Guideline

[Hairtrigger]

Nice job! Thanks for posting the pics

[muddysamurai]

Ok......Third times a charm.

[muddysamurai]

Made some more progress.

Used some cut down automotive studs for the muffler mount instead of the $16 ea. Cub Cadet studs for the muffler mounts.
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Final attachment of the clutch driver and studs.
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Engine mostly reassembled with the tins installed. going to have to do some cutting on the left tin that comes off the front of the engine next to the muffler as the exhaust pipe is in the way. The right tin had to have a bend tweaked so it would fit between the muffler and the exhust tube.
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and mounted....
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The air cleaner cover fits but you can't install/remove it because it has to come straight up and down, so the I trimmed the back of it so it could be slid on from the front.
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I have the wiring figured out and hooked up. I removed the starting solenoid from under the seat altogether and moved the starter solenoid wire to the front to starter mounted solenoid. I purchased a 6' battery cable to reach to the starter on the other side from the battery. I added a ground wire from the PTO clutch connector since it uses two wires instead of one.

The choke cable was able to reach to it new location, and I bought a manual push pull choke cable from the auto parts store to lengthen the throttle cable.