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  #1  
Old 06-29-2020, 03:06 PM
checkoutmyjunk checkoutmyjunk is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: PA
Posts: 6
Default 129 Hydro linkage turned into a can of worms

At 12 years of age, my father bought me a cub 129 to pursue a lawn mowing business. With the amount of oil it was burning a rebuild was in order. This Cub was my first opportunity to see what the inside of an engine looked like. There is more to support my sentimental attachment with the cub but as you can imagine, I would be sad to see it go.


The 129 stayed with the family though-out the years, I never wanted to see if leave but in the same breath, I didn't want another project. About 3 years ago for reasons I will never understand my mom gave it to my brother in law. My BIL has a way of making thing go wrong. After he acquired the 129, he acquired a snow blower and a complete parts rig to go with it. After realizing that it would take time and effort to put all the pieces back to working order he gave up and asked me if I wanted to buy the lot for what he had into it or trade for a firearm. I offered him a .22 long rifle I pulled out of a trash can, and he accepted. There was nothing wrong with marlin model 70, it just needed cleaned.


The lot consisted of a my childhood 129, a mostly complete 129 parts rig, a qa32 blower, the original plow, and the 48" mower deck that needed a spindle. After I got my 129 running and driving enough to mow my lawn I got rid of the parts rig, blower and plow. I plan to use the tractor on an island in a local river, so it will only be used for pulling kids around and mowing grass. It might have been a mistake to get rid of the parts rig. I did not sell it, but rather found a guy that was an enthusiast that just wanted a part, but I convinced him to bring a trailer and take it all for free.


After mowing with it I realized the hydro had way more creep than I was comfortable with for island duty. Think having a few beers, mowing near the water’s edge, and she starts taking off!

First problem, to adjust the bracket on the hydro I figured it would be easier to pull the rear fenders. The philips head screws on the treads were not budging, no amount of heat, penetrating oil or impact seem to loosen them so I drilled them out.

Second problem, the nuts that the now drilled philips heads were threaded into are welded to the supports. Time to get the cut off wheel and hammer out.

3rd problem, everything is covered in filth, power washer





4th problem: When I opened the petcock on the fuel tank, it seemed fine, till the next morning when I found a puddle of fuel under the tractor. Ordered a new carb, the aluminum blow would not seal, even with new gaskets.

5th problem: The flex disc joint was whooped, like 1/4" of run out whooped - not solved yet. IH 376257 R3 is in stock at my local hardware store.


6th problem: When the hyrdo is in reverse, it reruns to N perfectly, not so much in forward. The linkage clearly shows why. I managed to drive the pin out and plan to replace it with this dowel pin, any suggestions why I would not want to do this? I know that this pin is likely case hardened.
IH-545513-R2 is the P/N



How do I tell if IH-548055-R2 is worn too?
7th problem: The drive shaft hole is a bit wider than when she left the factory, seems the problem carried over to the hub that is bolted to the case as well. I put that bolt in there when I was a kid cause the roll pins kept failing.




My solution is somewhere between welding and re-drilling or buying a new unit ( IH 545511-R1) or reaching out to the guy I gave my parts rig to see if he wants to give these parts back.
The hub (394034 R32) and shaft will cost me $160 – $200 for new units.
Still avoiding looking to these springs, they appear to be fatigued.
Part# 732-3013 (Superseded to 932-3013)
Part# 732-3012 (Superseded to 932-3012)
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  #3  
Old 06-29-2020, 05:56 PM
TomRom's Avatar
TomRom TomRom is offline
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Default

[QUOTE=
Still avoiding looking to these springs, they appear to be fatigued.
Part# 732-3013 (Superseded to 932-3013)
Part# 732-3012 (Superseded to 932-3012)
[/QUOTE]

Nice work, looks like you got a handle on most if it.

The bracket that holds your trunion springs needs some help though. The Hydro spring guide pins (PN: 711-3033, USE: 911-3033) have worn a slot into the bracket, you will need to weld'm up so there perfect rectangles again. A lot of different fixes out there, google or search 'Trunion slot repair'. I added some arrows to your picture to draw your attention to the problem area.
Good luck!
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File Type: jpg t4qFdZnh.jpg (17.7 KB, 180 views)
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IHCC - 122, 125 x2, 127, 108 x2, 129, 149 x2, 1200, 1250, 1650 x2. SEARS - Six Speed Suburban 10HP, Quick Speed Change Suburban 10HP, Six Speed GT18 Twin. ECONOMY - Country Squire. CASE - 580B CK tlb. That's it for the 4 wheel ones....
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  #4  
Old 06-29-2020, 06:50 PM
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jbrewer jbrewer is offline
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Default

The roll pins kept failing because it's meant to have Spirol pins in there.

They last a long time.

And.... this seems like a normal repair cycle. By the time you get it all apart it's not easy to remember why you started, sometimes.!
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  #5  
Old 06-29-2020, 07:03 PM
dale c. dale c. is offline
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Location: Summerville, PA
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Default

get a coupler assy. from a 1450 at the engine end and install it you'll have to drill a new hole in the shaft about 1 inch back iirc.
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  #6  
Old 06-30-2020, 04:33 PM
checkoutmyjunk checkoutmyjunk is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomRom View Post
Nice work, looks like you got a handle on most if it.

The bracket that holds your trunion springs needs some help though. The Hydro spring guide pins (PN: 711-3033, USE: 911-3033) have worn a slot into the bracket, you will need to weld'm up so there perfect rectangles again. A lot of different fixes out there, google or search 'Trunion slot repair'. I added some arrows to your picture to draw your attention to the problem area.
Good luck!
Thanks Tom!

Balls, I didn't see that one coming

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=30880
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  #7  
Old 06-30-2020, 04:37 PM
checkoutmyjunk checkoutmyjunk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrewer View Post
The roll pins kept failing because it's meant to have Spirol pins in there.

They last a long time.

And.... this seems like a normal repair cycle. By the time you get it all apart it's not easy to remember why you started, sometimes.!
I saw this, but ran short of time to mention that I now know there is a special pin vs the roll pin I was likely being supplied with at my local ag center.

Thank you for the input, any and all help is always welcome!
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  #8  
Old 09-10-2020, 06:25 PM
checkoutmyjunk checkoutmyjunk is offline
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Two steps forward and.....

The trunion is finally welded and the linkage is back together

Then the points were filthy, fixed that. Now this is the new problem.

The entire harness is a mess. Looks like someone let the smoke out. Is it 16 awg?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 129-A.jpg (22.2 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 129-B.jpg (22.1 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 129-C.jpg (28.7 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 129-D.jpg (17.1 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 129-E.jpg (16.7 KB, 85 views)
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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