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  #31  
Old 12-11-2020, 10:53 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
The replacement dash had an ammeter drilled into it too? Wow must have been a high need for ammeters in your area.
Well the first one came from Massachusetts, but I dont know where b4 that. The one from ebay I just posted pics of was from Newville, Penna... (west of Carlisle). By the way the seller posted pics on ebay strategically taken so as not to see the rust sandwiches! Good thing they seem quite easy to fix

Not sure if I'd fix the hole or just stuff that ammeter into it...
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Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #32  
Old 12-11-2020, 11:08 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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People are sneaky like that, trying to make things seem better than they really are.

As for ammeter, I personally would weld up the hole, paint, and replace the dash decal, but that's just me . Having the ammeter might actually be helpful anyways. Always good to know that your tractor is actually charging.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #33  
Old 12-12-2020, 07:47 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is online now
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You need to cut the spot welds, not beat it to death with a chisel.
Check with your auto parts store, they can get you a spot weld cutter for your in a hand drill motor.
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  #34  
Old 12-12-2020, 09:21 AM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Spot weld cutter. Hmmm. I didnt even know these were spot welded until I opened them up. And I didnt know about spot weld drills either. I'll grab one at HF. Maybe then even make a larger battery tray that can accept a small car battery since there more choices that way, more cranking amps etc
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
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  #35  
Old 12-12-2020, 01:27 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Ok well the HF spot weld drill worked fantastic, except only for one hole before it broke up. But the concept is great, thanks for the education. I ended up just drilling them out, hammered the tabs straight, and cleaned with a light grinder treatment. We now have a Metal Supermarket and they have a bending press that goes up to 16ga IIRC. I'll see about making a bigger battery tray in 3 pieces the bottom and sides, a back piece to hit the tabs and a front to retain the battery. Looks like a Group 34 might do, gotta make sure it doesnt come too far forward. Not sure if gonna weld the new tray back in (dont have a spot welder just a stick welder) or maybe short SS bolts or some kind or low profile type of machine screw.
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File Type: jpg common car batteries.jpg (18.7 KB, 104 views)
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 12-12-2020, 07:23 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is online now
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All my tractors start just fine with a decent L&G size battery.

If you need a car size battery to start your Cub, I would suggest a good tune up starting with static timing.
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  #37  
Old 12-12-2020, 08:00 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
All my tractors start just fine with a decent L&G size battery.

If you need a car size battery to start your Cub, I would suggest a good tune up starting with static timing.
I agree not use big battery in place of proper tune. But the LG batts dont seem to last (going by reviews) if I go to a common car batt size (which I think the early cubs had), then I can get an AGM or otherwise high quality battery that will go many years. Also, IF the tune does get poor and I need to move some snow b4 servicing the problem, I wont have to jump it. It even adds a little more weight to balance the loader.

Well, it's not the best logic but now is the time to make the upgrade!

I'd love to hear some input on the 5.70's. I think they are just too tall for the front and even if I raise the spindle location by an inch to get the frame level again, they just dont look right anyway! Thoughts??? Now's the time on that too...
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
Reply With Quote
  #38  
Old 12-17-2020, 12:08 AM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Location: RI
Posts: 384
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OK not doing the 5.70 fronts. Prob be 4.80's and then widers later.
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 01-03-2021, 07:25 PM
CubbyRI CubbyRI is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: RI
Posts: 384
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Procured a power steering pump and cylinder today very happy. One step closer. The hubs and spindles got lost by USPS so the seller sent me a replacement set due tomorrow. As soon as weather permits, I'll do the spindle upgrade and then start fitting the PS gear.
__________________
Model 100 Dec 2020 - Running condition, has snow plow!
Model 123 Nov 2020 Hydro needs much work, or resto, building front end loader for this one
Model 100 Feb 2019 apart for total frame-off / sandblast etc resto

Model 70 Sep 2020 needs total resto and an engine, or for parts
Model 70/100 Mar 2021 buried in rust, frozen engine, got free for parts.

two spare hydro rears
"in for a penny, in for a pound!"
Reply With Quote
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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