Cylinder Honing

[West Valley G]

Working on the M18 and have a question on cylinder. The cylinders look quite good with no vertical scratches. A faint bit of the original cross hatch is still seen, quite obvious where the rings don't touch. I have your standard run of the mill 3 stone hone that runs in the drill chuck. I pulled an old lawn mower apart so I could practice on something besides the real deal. I realize it is an aluminum bore I am practicing on but. It certainly takes the glaze out fine but all the light scratching from the hone seems to run in a horizontal pattern only. When I compare that to the cross hatch seen in the M18, which runs at a minimum of a 45 degree angle to each other. It is significantly different.
Thought I would run it by you all before I continue.

Thank you much. Oh and warm greetings from
-30 degree MT

Ken

[darkminion_17]

I would leave it be.

[ol'George]

You have a spring loaded deglazing hone.
Run it slow in yer drill and work it up down to produce the 30-45* crosshatch pattern.
All you want to do is remove the glaze slightly to help the new rings to seat properly.
Use kerosene as a lube,and keep it wet.
A cylinder in a 5 gal pail with kerosene works well.
don't linger in one part of the cyl. keep moving it up and down in the bore, as it rotates.
You will not need to take any material off, just knock the "shine" off the walls
It should not take but a few minutes for each cylinder.
Then wash the cylinders out with hot soapy water TWICE THROUGHLY making sure to use a scrub brush. you do not want any of that abrasive cast iron and hone stone material in the cyl's, winding up in the engine oil.

Just ask a fellow member here who is re doing his rebuild because he didn't do that.

[Bryan S]

Here's a video that might be helpful to you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBFIh-TKeqw

[ICOM 756]

take the warm soapy water to heart as george says... i LEARNED... brake clean is NOT ENOUGH... tho i was keeping very close eye.. about hour run time and i drained oil.. another hour on new oil and still same amount of metel. pulled it apart and dirt or valve compound or boring bits damage to rod on crank side. piston skirts and cyl walls.
very lite i got real lucky ... over wash to be even safer...

Originally Posted by ol'George

You have a spring loaded deglazing hone.
Run it slow in yer drill and work it up down to produce the 30-45* crosshatch pattern.
All you want to do is remove the glaze slightly to help the new rings to seat properly.
Use kerosene as a lube,and keep it wet.
A cylinder in a 5 gal pail with kerosene works well.
don't linger in one part of the cyl. keep moving it up and down in the bore, as it rotates.
You will not need to take any material off, just knock the "shine" off the walls
It should not take but a few minutes for each cylinder.
Then wash the cylinders out with hot soapy water TWICE THROUGHLY making sure to use a scrub brush. you do not want any of that abrasive cast iron and hone stone material in the cyl's, winding up in the engine oil.

Just ask a fellow member here who is re doing his rebuild because he didn't do that.

[West Valley G]

Thanks for the input there all. It is todays project, this is getting pretty
exciting eh. I have a tendency to over think and over do things, so
going overboard on the cleaning part of this will be just about normal.

Ken