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#1
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Kohler 161 help needed
I finally got my first CC and I stumbled across a 1962 Original that I picked up. The engine was loosely bolted in place and there was no wiring. It came with a butchered harness from some other CC. I managed to cobble together a workable harness out of what I had, I have a new ignition not right for an original, and a push start that isn't correct and I'm not sure works. At this point I know the battery is good, the wires and connections should be good, and someone threw new points on it and engine is free.
What is a good and simple way to get this to just turn over and fire? The rest I can work backwards on to get online. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Trying to figure out how viable a restoration my purchase is. |
#2
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I am sure there are different ideas on where to start here, but my place
to start would be. Make sure you have spark at the plug. Without that, it for sure has no chance. If there is no spark you can at least work back and find out where between the key and the plug it is failing. I am assuming the engine will turn over. If it doesn't then we will have to take a different approach. Good luck, sounds like you have been learning alot. Gotta love it. Ken |
#3
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I'm gonna suggest that you tear out whatever cobbled up mess of a wiring harness that has, and buy a nice new one.
Here's a good option: https://xtrememotorworks.com/Wiring%20Kits.html For ignition, assuming this is an electric start machine, be sure you have an external coil. It will not function without a coil. It will also not function unless 12 volts from the battery are supplied to the positive side of the coil. On the negative side, the points and condenser attach. Here's where you can find a wiring diagram: https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35 hope this helps!
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#4
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The coil and starter are present, as is the voltage regulator. Just more concerned about hearing the engine fire before I sink money into it as a project. Not sure which direction I want to take it yet either. Not sure it's going to get a resto, might just clean it up and leave it as a survivor with vintage replacement parts for what is missing.
If the engine fires, I'll re-gasket it, rebuild the starter and carb, and then re-wire it to make it safe. At the moment I'm more concerned with proving to the wife it actually "works" before she sees it as unnecessary "yard art." |
#5
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With the wiring diagram you were provided with, you will be able to get it to turn over, and check for spark.
Then you can determine if the fuel system needs attention. pretty simple actually, and not rocket science. No need to spend $$ at this point just time spent diagnosing it. Good time to involve the wife, she is a wonderful person,--- she married you! Things done together are long remembered. Sometimes it is good to have someone turn the key or hold a wrench for you. Then your time spent on the project is no longer "the other un seem woman" She sees no threat. That paves the way for other projects. Good luck oh, pictures do help us see what you are dealing with. |
#6
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The simplest way I can think of to get it running would be a temporary hotwire. All you need is some spare wire that you may have laying around. Or just re-use some of the existing wiring.
You need a lead from the positive side of the battery through a simple toggle switch, and then down to the positive side of the coil. This will provide power for spark, and the toggle switch will allow you to shut it off if needed. Then you will need a lead from the positive side of the battery to the starter button on the dash (I would assume you already have a wire for this) and then another wire off the other end of the push button that will run directly to the "A" terminal on the starter/generator. When you push the button this should supply power to the starter/generator and spin the engine over. Of course you also need a wire from the negative battery terminal to somewhere on the tractor frame to act as a ground. This setup will bypass the safety and charging systems, allowing you to simply test the engine's functionality. Just a disclaimer, If/when you verify that the engine will run, do NOT use this setup to drive the machine as it is quite dangerous, you'll also need the charging system if you want the engine to stay running, otherwise the battery ignition will kill the battery as it runs.
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
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