Paint for "newer" Cubs

[blackcloud77]

I am also looking into Summit Racing branded paints, the interwebby says they're made by Kirker. Here's a price list of the same plan using those:

Wax and Grease Remover SUM-UP404
DTM Epoxy Primer Gray SUM-UP230G - $52.99/gal & $20.99/qtProduct Data Sheet
Epoxy Primer Catalyst SUM-UP231G - $41.99 & $17.99/qt
Single Stage Acrylic Urethane Wimbledon White SUM-UP322G - $83.99/gal & $25.99/qt Product Data Sheet
Slow Urethane Activator SUM-UP102 $23.99/qt

Problem is, they don't seem to have the "School Bus Yellow" color anymore. Now looking into TCP Global paints, which come with some decent feedback. They have both Wimbledon White and School Bus Yellow. Next post to contain list of materials from TCP.

[blackcloud77]

TCP Global "Restoration Shop"

Quart Wax and grease remover $22.96
1/2 Gallon Epoxy Primer/Sealer Kit (1qt primer, 1qt hardener) $76.96 Data Sheet
Quart of Wimbledon White + pint of hardener kit $76.96 Data Sheet
Quart of School Bus Yellow + pint of hardener kit $87.96
Quart of Slow Urethane Reducer $25.96

[blackcloud77]

So this project is taking a little while, not a whole lot of progress as of yet.

I have decided based on some decent reviews, excellent price point and well...this IS still just a tractor... to try the Summit Racing paint. I've got all the Summit supplies and a quart of Wimbledon White paint. I will have to decide what to do about yellow paint later. Accept whatever close match Summit has, or pay a little more for TCP Global.

After much debate and YouTube videos, I decided on the Astro Pneumatic EuroPro spray gun. I actually wanted the HE version after having received good comments on the Paint Society YouTube channel, but JBTools.com decided they didn't have it in stock AFTER sending me the non-HE version. Twice. So I guess I'm just going to keep it. If all I was painting was my Cub, I would have got the Hazard Fart $15 special but this is also a learning experience...to get up the cajones to paint my car.

I've completely removed the paint from one fender, and over the month or so that's passed, it's re-accumulated some surface rust. Should have put some rattle can primer on it, but no big deal. I started stripping the other fender last weekend and sadly found some rusted pinholes. I think lead body solder would be an easy and quick repair for those pinholes, but I am trying to convince myself that an N100 respirator and common sense protection is sufficient to sand lead safely. We're still talking about a tractor here but Bondo, fiberglass and even welding (with my inexperience) would probably turn out janky.

Plans now are to use electrolysis to remove rust from both fenders, hood and grille. 55g plastic drum, battery charger, washing soda and some rebar should do the trick. This method is pretty well documented on the interweb. This should work well, but I may need a kiddie pool when it comes time for the bigger parts, floor pan and rear section.

[guyina4x4]

I found a gallon of valspar farm implement paint on clearance at farm and fleet for $4 about a year ago.
I painted my 2185 deck with it and the foot areas. It matched very well.
I still have most of it left.
I'm planning to paint my 1864 with it someday and maybe my 2084 if there is enough left.
It is 4431-07 trans yellow.

I also have a gallon of Oliver green that i snagged that day for $6. Not sure what I'll ever do with it but I'll think of something.

[blackcloud77]

It's been a hot minute, slowly but surely I'm working through this project. Here's where we're at:

• Stripped all paint from all white panels using gel-type paint stripper.
• Electrolytic bath to convert rust. Might consider chemical alternatives in the future like Evapo-Rust or Ospho. Setting up electro baths for the bigger panels is going to be a pain in the ass.
• Sanded metal with 80 grit and sprayed 2 coats of Summit Racing DTM Epoxy Primer
• Decided lead solder was too much hassle for the small perforations from rust. Cleaned up the backside and applied some 2 part epoxy to provide a backing for a dab of body filler on the front. Keep it simple, stupid. Used body filler where pitting exists.
• Spray 2 more coats of epoxy primer because sanding body filler left some metal exposed. Primer/surfacer might have been more appropriate here, but there was plenty of epoxy primer left in the can.
• Was outside the recoat window of the primer, so I sanded with 320 grit before spraying color, or additional coats of primer. This also helped to level the surface.
• Sprayed single stage Summit Racing Acrylic Urethane in Wimbledon White - 3 coats, a little overkill. Flash for 20-30 mins between. About 20psi.

I am not sure how perfectly the paint matches the original, but I am EXTREMELY happy with the color. This is the first time I've ever sprayed automotive non-rattlecan paint, so there's a fair amount of orange peel certainly from my lack of skill. The Paint Society YouTube channel was pretty helpful though. Now the question is whether or not to wet sand and buff. I keep telling myself, THIS IS JUST A TRACTOR. But I probably am going to anyway, just to be really proud of the job.

Just how dumb is all this hassle? Let's put it in perspective. I am having to use a remote starter button to bypass the starting circuits just so I can mow grass...but it sure will have a nice paint job! Sigh... I really don't know why I do the things I do sometimes.

Next up will be decals (arriving soon) and re-assembly. The Summit Racing paint is very affordable, it laid down really nice so I am tempted to go with that for the yellow panels. I do want to get a good match for the yellow paint however, because I won't be painting the frame. It still looks good. Just the rear panel, floor panel and the deck. Closest thing they have in single stage is just called "Yellow," it looks pretty darned close just looking at internet pictures. I think I'm going to order a color chip card so I can hold it up to the frame and decide. I may go with it anyway because it is so darned cheap and the cost increase to go with ShopLine, ehh... this is just a tractor, this is just a tractor.

Pictures in the link below, the primer looks far darker than it actually is.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...lg?usp=sharing

[Oak]

Paint looks good to me. Great job.