LTX1040 losing forward (belt drive)

[ironman]

(copy and paste to your browser address bar)

file:///C:/Users/Owner/AppData/Local/Temp/LTX1000%20Series%20+%20SLTX1000%20Series%20(2009%2 0-%202014).pdf

Starting at page 68 covers CVT operation,
starting at page 118 covers belt replacement.

[ltxtim]

I was reading through the manual, I hadn't made it to the belt replacement section until now.

Those are some really good directions!

It says to identify why a belt needs to be replaced early/prematurely.

Does 130 hours count as early? (I was sort of blaming it on all of the leaf dust from repeated running over leafs caused the initial slipping and than wear.) I'd blow myself off with a leaf blower after as I'd be covered too.

I will check the variable pulley when I have it apart. Anything else?

[ironman]

130 hours is 130 hours. It is also 7 years old. Nothing lasts forever, especially nowadays. If this is the first thing you've had to do on this tractor in seven years, consider yourself lucky.

With your description of least dust, after the belts are replaced, my big concern would be with the cooling and air filtration of the motor. (i.e. clean out engine shroud and carb air filter)

[guyina4x4]

I don't think hours means much to those belts.
I replace a lot of them in the 7-9 year old range. Hour meter readings all over the place.

[ltxtim]

As an update, I got the belts replaced. Variable pulley felt ok (moved freely).

The belts when compared to new didn't look stretched out or that worn (as compared to a PTO belt). (So, I am saving them as something is better than nothing if I break a belt.)

The new belts did seem to cure the problem. Reverse snaps me back in my seat like it use to. I thought forward was a little faster. Zero problems going up hill like it use to. The engine didn't like it though. These "tests" were on a cold day, so I'll know best next spring.

The only tip for others: if you don't have an impact gun (I have one), you'll need a way to hold the PTO shaft/pulley while taking the bolt off of the engine. If you're a stickler for using a torque wrench, same problem for putting it back on.

[ltxtim]

Posting a not quite 1 year update:

Over the past season, every now and then I would notice slipping when going up hill. Things were pretty good for the most part.

Now that leaf season is here (I have lots of trees bordering me), mulching all of the leafs (and leaf dust) seems to have brought a lot of the slipping back. Sometimes not even going up hill or really bad when going up hill.

Is there any reasonable way to clean all of the drive pulleys? Should I look at replacing them?

Thanks!

[guyina4x4]

If you follow the linkage from the GO pedal you'll find a link that is adjustable attached to the bracket with 2 pulleys on it.
Take it off the pulley bracket and loosen the jam nut and shorten the rod by 3 turns. Then try it again.
If you shorten the rod too much the tractor will not stop when you let off the GO pedal. If this happens just turn it back out till it works right.
That should solve your problem.

Should also make sure the big pulley on top of the trans is tight and not stripping out the hub.

[ltxtim]

Originally Posted by guyina4x4

If you follow the linkage from the GO pedal you'll find a link that is adjustable attached to the bracket with 2 pulleys on it.
Take it off the pulley bracket and loosen the jam nut and shorten the rod by 3 turns. Then try it again.
If you shorten the rod too much the tractor will not stop when you let off the GO pedal. If this happens just turn it back out till it works right.
That should solve your problem.

Should also make sure the big pulley on top of the trans is tight and not stripping out the hub.

Thanks. I'll give this a try and report back.

[ltxtim]

I did this and did 3 turns.

No problems with moving forward without my foot on the pedal.

However, when in neutral and pushing it back into the garage, I now get resistance and hear something spinning (like a mechanical sound).