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  #11  
Old 03-09-2022, 03:02 PM
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Farmall450 Farmall450 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironman View Post
You're the expert so,
All readers, please disregard my input.
No need for that -- just adding my $0.02 as you did yours
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  #12  
Old 03-09-2022, 10:07 PM
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guyina4x4 guyina4x4 is offline
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Originally Posted by Farmall450 View Post
Can't say I've ever seen a sheared flywheel key on anything that's not directly driven off the crank (e.g. pushmower). It's tough to diag, though.

I have, Briggs single on a Craftsman
Kohler Command single on a Scott's
Both belt drive, Both surprised me.
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2022, 09:58 AM
Shadowfax419 Shadowfax419 is offline
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Location: Georgia
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Thanks for the input, guys! After quite a few days of nasty weather, I got back to work on the Cub Cadet. I checked the fuel line all the way to the carb, it appears to be fine. I finally primed the carb with a little gas and it spit the gas back out but then it started. It ran fine for 15 or 20 minutes. Thinking it was just bad gas or water in the fuel bowl, I shut it off and went away for a while. After about 1/2 hour, I went back and tried to start it. Would not fire...I reprimed the carb and it started fine...any ideas, I'm thinking bad float, maybe?
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  #14  
Old 03-22-2022, 11:34 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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The term "bad float would usually be analogous to "leaking float".
If a float is not "leaking", how else can it be "bad"?
Therefore, you more likely have residue built up in the floats needle seat that is hanging up the float.
When you prime the carb and the engine fires, engine vibration probably loosens it up and the float drops.
While the engine is running the float never fully seats the needle until you shut the engine off and the float bowl fills.
When you get back to the no start condition, carefully drop the float bowl without disturbing the float, and see if the float is hung up.
If so, clean your needle and seat.
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  #15  
Old 04-06-2022, 08:16 AM
Shadowfax419 Shadowfax419 is offline
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Default Finally found the answer

Ok, guys...after losing what little hair I have remaining, I now feel like a total idiot...but my mower is running! I did some searching and found a video that described my problem exactly and provided a solution. I thought it couldn't be that simple, but I'll try it. I loosened the choke cable at the carb, slid the metal wound sleeve forward a little in order to give the choke plate more play, tightened it back down and fully engaged the choke...started right up! Duhhh! As often happens, I forgot to come back on here and update everyone. I'll try to find the link for the youtube video for the guy that posted the fix! Thanks for the input everyone, you guys are the best!

Here's the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wcu94vGIQb8
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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